It’s one week since I arrived in Levanto, to some extent I’ve worked out the lay of the land although the local bus schedule still has me dazed and confused. My little studio apartment is in fact located in Casella near to Montale – you need the additional geographical location, when I relay to my new found Italian friends where I’m staying, it’s always “Ah, Ca-Zella near to Montale”. Casella is located nearly 3km from the centre of Levanto, I would have referred to it as being slightly uphill although having now walked that ‘slight’ hill several times – I feel like I’m staying at the top of Kilimanjaro, well not quite but after a long days outing, the walk home is challenging!

At the start!

Walking the hill to Casella

Nearly at the bottom

Casella is really just a set of apartment blocks all melded together – of course there is a church, well the façade of one at least. It was an old Olive Oil Mill some years ago, that has been added to, refurbished and sold off. I’m the freak in the Village, not because I’m a foreigner because I leave my front door open and say “Ciao” to my neighbours as they go about their daily routines. They scurry through the walkways and enter in haste, sealing themselves within their tomblike homes. Windows and doors are always closed, the activities within their homes reserved only for the privileged inside.

My lounge window on the right

View towards my front door

However, if neighbours cross paths, there is joviality and chatter – there is no such thing as a quiet Italian, they would definitely give the Lewis/Steer clan a run for our money. I understand nothing of what is said, although each encounter brings a smile to my face – they’re welcoming, cheerful and friendly although it seems at first they’re arguing bitterly until each steps away with a smile and a “Ciao, Ciao, Ciao”. It may well be the locked doors and windows are to ensure some peace and quiet or possibly to keep the crazy foreigner out!

The biggest challenge I’ve faced so far living in this small village environment, is the garbage system – your trash is to be sorted a. Landfill, b. Paper, c. recyclable plastics, d. organic waste and e. glass – garbage is collected every day although there is a roster of what rubbish goes out, on what day. There is an extensive chart located on the kitchen wall and at present I have five bin/bags on the go. It’s smart, it’s makes you think about recycling with every piece of rubbish you discard.

To describe the Italian lifestyle as laidback is an understatement – we always refer to the Australian way of life as being laidback although I’m fairly certain the Italian’s have the title secured. Each day I pass a local coffee shop, a line of chairs is placed along one wall and I am becoming familiar with the regular occupants. Day in and day out, elderly gentleman passing the time away, gathering to solve the day’s dilemma and to offer advice, whether coveted or not! This has become my regular for morning coffee – it’s well located to watch the daily arrivals from the Stazione.

Photo of old men in chairs to come…. I’m scared if they see me take a photo they’ll give me more advice!

When I last visited the Cinque Terre region in 2011, I struggled to walk the track between Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare – a challenging walk but made all the more difficult due to the excess weight I was carrying. When I made the decision to take this trip, I set myself a goal to lose weight so I could enjoy the walks and get the most of being in this amazing region of Italy. Two days ago, I walked from Levanto to Monterosso, nearly 12km over the top of a mountain. It’s been some time since I’ve had a more personal satisfying fist pumping moment as I reached the peak. The walk was made more enjoyable through today’s technology, for nearly 30 minutes whilst scaling the mountain through unknown territory, I was video-chatting with Dana who was able to not only experience the walk with me but also ensured that in the event my heart stopped or I collapsed on the path, I would avoid being tomorrow’s headline!

On the trail

View from the top

Beautiful!

Yesterday I set off to walk from Riomaggiore to Manarola and then on to Corniglia along the ocean walkways. Taking the boat trip from Levanto and being able to see the region from the water, takes your breath away. Each village is secluded between ruggered mountains scattered with terraced farmlands, farmers which must be half mountain goat to be able to tend their crops. After spending several hours of discovery in Riomaggiore I set out on my next walk. The easy strolling track located high above the crash of the wave line along ‘Vie del amore’ was closed due to landslides. Not to be deterred, I moved on to Manarola by train with the intention of walking Manarola to Corniglia but alas another track closed due to damage. I was under prepared to take on the upper tracks, wrong clothes and shoes, although I’ll come back next week better prepared to tackle these treks.

Instead I spent the day meandering through the villages taking time to sit and watch the world go by, taking in the sights and sounds of the bustling crowds as each boat and train arrived spewing forth more tourists. Whilst the picturesque villages are what postcards are made for, I can’t help feeling somewhat dismayed at seeing the cheap tacky souvenir shops in each of the village centres – I know the locals rely on tourism however the quaint small village life has long departed these shores and they’re now bursting at the seams for the tourist dollar! I may forage inland to discover a different Italy.

A note to the Cinque Terre Tourism, many of the visitors to this area are elderly and the walks along the seaway from Riomaggiore to Corniglia via Manarola are possible the only walks many can do. It’s disappointing these tracks are not yet open, I recall when I visited in 2011, these were also the same tracks not open.