The week that was …

 

The time is definitely flying by too fast – I can’t believe already another week has gone by. What have I been doing this week? Sitting in cafes, enjoying a coffee or a carafe of wine – lots of nothing I think but here’s a few highlights.

Reading, reading and reading!

As most you know, books, reading, literature is my passion. I never have enough time to read, it’s my mission on this holiday to read as many books as I can – I’m currently reading Book #14! I think I might start a separate tab for books and write a summary for them. Keep a look out for this addition to the Blog. I’ll just need to get Manon to show me how to do this!

I actually brought with me three actual books, I started one the other day although I’ve had to abandon it as the print is too small – it seems I need to locate a magnifying glass to read those. Not a bloody word from any of you!IMG_4161

Not just a Cooking Class… 

On many of my holidays, I’ve undertaken cooking classes, I always think I should come away with a little bit more knowledge of the food of not only that Country but the local area I’ve decided to stay in.

I found via TripAdvisor a restaurant called L’Articiocca that hold cooking classes in the Ligurian (the region) cuisine. I emailed and had a reply back within a couple of hours. There is a minimum of two people, I explained I was on my own and he mentioned that the next day there is a class that I could join. Voila! I was off to my cooking class the next day.

So the plan was to make a three course meal, which consisted of pasta (croxetti, tortelloni and fettuccine), sauces for all three pastas as well as making traditional pesto and ricotta cheese (yes, cheese from scratch) with a lemon curd sauce for dessert. I was somewhat doubtful of my skills in the kitchen and my cooking companions were a young couple from Canada with their 2-year-old Nash and 6-month old Fox. Hey if the 2-year-old can cook pasta, I can!

Our chef extraordinaire – Ermanno was accompanied by the lovely Miss Clara – we started with making up the pastry for the two different types of pasta – one that is deep fried (yes not good for those of us counting points) and the other, being typical pastas. Ermanno is quick to let us know where the best place (locally) to grow Basil, this is what sets the Liguria pesto apart from everyone else. I always thought pesto has cashews – something we never eat at home due to Dana’s allergies – however “real” pesto is made with pine nuts! Who knew? I need to dig out my mortar and pestle and stop using it as a door stop – there’s pesto to be made.

 

We spent three wonderful hours filling our senses with a variety of aromas, feeling the dough to see how it rebounds under our touch and of course, how it looks. The visual is almost as important as the taste! I just needed to get to the tasting part. At one point there was a lull in our class whilst we waited for the gluten in the pasta dough to do its thing! Something had separated and we were waiting for it to combine again – maybe – I kind of lost this bit. I was too busy watching Clara bring together, what is without a doubt, the best Aperol Spritzer I’ve had (and I’ve had few)!

 

We then proceeded to make fresh ricotta cheese – yes I’m now a Casaro – Fromager – Cheesemaker! It was so easy and so much better than any I’ve tasted before. Is it because I’ve made it with my own hands or because it is so fresh – do we lose all the flavour one it’s packaged and processed and sent to market? Another on my ‘To Do’ list or ‘To Do’ again…

Once the pasta was made, we then turned our culinary skills to the sauces – so simple, took literally minutes to prepare – what do we always seem to make things so complicated.  I can’t wait to prepare my feast for my family, although they may all need to make their own pasta otherwise it will take me forever! Liguria is renowned for its lemons, they reap a quarter of cup of juice from just one lemon!

Finally, our meals are prepared, accompanied by an aromatic local Vermentino (of course, the hint of citrus stands out), we take our places to enjoy the fruits of our labour. There is nothing more fulfilling then sitting down enjoying great food, great wine with amazing individuals!

The memory of this Ligurian cooking class will remain with me for years to come!

Leaning Tower of Pisa

I ventured for a day out in Pisa, of course to visit the Tower. As I headed off on my walking endeavour after arriving at the Pisa Centrale Stazione, I found so much more than just a Leaning Tower. My travels through the City led me to happen across an art show displaying works of Ugo Nespolo – whilst I’m no art critic, I’m not sure what I was more impressed with the venue for the showing – Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Spina, erected in the mid 1200s and boasts architecture from the Italian Gothic style or in fact the artwork itself.

The next intriguing structure is the fortified wall that encompasses the City holding it within in falling down clutches. This wall dates back to circa 1165. I continually come across these structures and find it unfathomable that they’ve withstood the test of time as well as they have. They are formidable!

From any point in the City, you just need to follow the crowd to make your way to Pisa’s foremost attractions – The Leaning Tower of Pisa, Piazza dei Miracoli (formally known as Piazza del Duomo) and the Pisa Baptistry. First thoughts upon seeing this Tower is of course, how on earth is it standing – why doesn’t it fall? How has it not already fallen? It’s quite a lean – if I remember correctly it’s something like a 5m difference? Is that right? Not sure what the degree of lean would be. Let me assure you after climbing over 250 odd steps to the top, you can certainly feel the lean, it’s quite off putting, I needed to hang on to the sides as I made my way up and down, it’s quite daunting and then when you get to the top, the sensation that you’re falling is quite real. I was not on my own, holding on, as we tentatively made our way around the circumference of the turret.

The other buildings are extraordinaire in their own way – the Baptistry would certainly give Saint Peter’s Basilica a run for its money – John the Baptist, of course, has equal relevance in the Christian history books and as such, the Baptistry is impressive and steeped in history.

La Spezia with David Bowie

I had decided that at some point during my month in Levanto that I would hire a car to see further afield. To do this I must venture into La Spezia, I spent four hours wondering through this Italian city which, to be honest, is quite unremarkable. As a gateway to the Cinque Terre it’s almost a forgotten city, there is a large harbour where cruise ships dock, a relatively large train station and all of the major hire car company are located within La Spezia. Whilst the hubs are a hype of activity of tourists coming and going to get to the Cinque Terre, it doesn’t appear that their tourist dollar makes it into the local shops or restaurants. Of course, there is a spin off although it’s a mere pittance when compared to the amount that is spewed into the 5 small villages that rest on the sides of hills. When the cruise ships dock and at the peak of the season, there can be up to 20,000 visitors per day to this region. I’m extremely pleased I’ve come off-peak!

I failed in my attempt to secure a hire car on this particular day, it was the Italian Republic Day and as such a public holiday. I decided to enjoy a relaxing lunch and make my return, however I happened upon Fondazione Carispezia which currently houses a display of the photographic work of Masayoshi Sukita – you may not know his name (I didn’t) although I recognised his photos of the legend David Bowie. I couldn’t believe in this small side street, in this forgotten Italian City, I was fortunate enough to come across such a viewing with gratuitous entry. If they were not original prints, they were of course, limited additions. As a long standing fan of Bowie, who was extremely saddened by his recent death, I was ecstatic to be able to see this show. I know this will remain a highlight of my journey.

And last but not least

I appear to have a couple of new friends in Casella – I don’t believe I need to say more – a photo is worth a thousand words! Don’t expect to see either of them in future posts.