The day starts later than I had planned, the issue – I was unable to find ice! It seems the long weekend of near perfect weather on the Gold Coast had everyone in the outdoors, at the beaches and of course, in need of ice to keep their summer beverages ice cold!
I take the route I’ve travelled many times before heading towards the Toowoomba ranges. I have the option to take the new bypass road, I recall Denis Wagner talking through the steps to get this road built and what it meant for people of the West. It is a remarkable road – a cliché, although when you drive across the expanse of the viaduct, an engineering phenomenon, an 800m long bridge that removes the need for vehicles to navigate the deep terrain, it’s hard not to be impressed by a stretch of road.
I’ve downloaded an audiobook to keep me company – a Nicholas Sparks, nothing too heavy for my first day on the road – if I inadvertently miss a page or two, I’ll fill in the lost paragraphs relatively easy. You’ll know Sparks’ work – “The Notebook”, “Dear John” etc.
I settle in to the drive ahead, some 400km to the west. I’m absentmindedly taking in the sights whilst listening to Sparks navigate his way through his latest romantic tale when the story takes a turn – it’s getting somewhat hot and heavy, am I reliving the nightmare of “50 Shades”? At one point, laughing so much, that I nearly veered off the edge of the road, I fear a bathroom break is in store! I calm myself and get back into concentrating on the road ahead, I then start wondering what the country folk must have thought about this lunatic in the car veering off the verge – if only they knew!
I pass through many small towns along the way, taking in Milmerran, a place my sister considers retiring to. A small sleepy town whose painted water tank greets you as you cross the town border. A piece of the Australian Silo Art Trail.
Celebrating Cobb & Co.
As I continue on the long stretch between Milmerran and Goodiwindi, I note the remnants of bush fire season. The twisted branch with whispers of new growth forging from the charred remains. It reminds me of the perils of country life. A bush fire destroys everything in its path, the flora and fauna, the crops, the homes, the people. As City folk, it’s hard for me to comprehend how lives and livelihoods can be changed by a flash of lightning, a careless discard of a cigarette butt or a thrown bottle that becomes a flint for the suns rays.
along the road…
I arrive at my destination the Goondiwindi Holiday Park where I’ll test out my new camping set up. I’ve camp before although not using my car as a bed! The park is clean and tidy, well cared for. There’s a pool and spa – I’m going to give that a test drive as well. First I set up my camp – I think about which way I should park – east/west, north/south? I’m thinking about the sun coming through the car windows tomorrow morning!! It’s an hour before I settle into my camp chair, feet up on the stool with a glass of bubbles in hand. There’s not a lot of people around, the park is quite. A scattering of grey nomads.
Gotta love that glass!Camp set up | Kitchen with essentials | Bed
After enjoying the peace and tranquility of my campsite and a glass of bubbles, I decide to head for a swim and spa. With Goondiwindi getting down to 13c overnight, the pool was like a dip in arctic waters. As I stepped into the warm waters of the spa and took my place in front of the jets, the stress of city life was pummelled out of me. I succumbed to the sounds of galahs in the surrounding trees, the road trains in the distance and the hum of the spa.
Communal fire place | Pool and spa | Camp kitchen
If you’re heading west and would like a break for a day or two – I can definitely recommend the park – the facilities were spotlessly clean and well maintained!
I wake this morning to the sound of birds in the trees, I’ve missed this since moving to my beachside apartment, I pack up, rearing to go as I head towards my next destination – a Sheep Station…
One of the things I love about blogging my journeys, is the excitement, interaction and suggestions I gather before I embark upon my intrepid journey. During a conversation with friends over the impending outback adventure, the subject of the almighty Australian fly settles into the conversation. How will I cope? What actions will I take? I’ll need spray, a swat, a twig of eucalyptus, a netted hat – ah, I quell the chatter – I’m more of a cork kind of gal…
Fortunately for me, I have friends and colleagues who hold me to my word. I arrive at the desk on Monday morning to find I’m the new owner of swankiest wide brim hat that both Steve ‘Crikey’ Irwin and the Leyland Brothers would be proud of.
There is much ado as to the best way to secure the corks – where will I gather the corks from? Alas, the solution is immediately upon me. The hat will be become my journey, it will develop over time – the corks, will come from the champagne I drink along the way…
So here’s my commitment to you – for each blog post, I’ll give you an update of the hat – I believe it will be a personality all of its own, so a name is appropriate – thoughts?
Here she is – the original cork, a reminder of where the journey began…
It’s been some time since I’ve written anything and with a 5 week impending drive tour of Queensland, it’s a great opportunity for me to get back into a daily writing schedule.
My usual holidays would be abroad although in the middle of a pandemic, with not only National borders closed but State borders, I find myself seeking out alternatives. With Victoria in lockdown and residents not permitted to travel 5km from their home – I’m certainly luckier than some.
Travelling through Queensland was something shelved for when I retire and am no longer able to travel overseas however, with the trip a couple of weeks away, the planning all but sorted – I’m somewhat excited at the prospect of visiting places I’ve never been and revisiting some favourites.
I’m a camper (well, a camper of sorts) so I’m decking out the Honda HRV with a canopy and throwing the camp mattress in the back. I’m taking a leaf out of KonMarie’s book and will be taking but the bare essentials!
Join me on my solo trip in the Outback, I’m sure there will be a laugh or two, there will definitely be champagne – a shout out to those country pubs – get the Veuve in! Although I’m a bit partial to a Moët and Chandon Iced Imperial Rosè at the moment, thanks to my friends at Mamasan! I think I’ll stack the roof racks!
I’m not sure even where to start this, so let’s cut to the chase.
After a whirlwind four months in Europe from May to August 2016, I returned home to set goals in my personal life and work. Making a pledge to ensure a better work/life balance. Taking time out to smell the roses!
I’m not sure what happened to the bloody roses, it seems I landed in more bullshit that anyone could have ever imagined.
Let’s set the scene – I left the family home at the end of November 2012 – there are many reasons for this and if I’m honest, it had been coming a long time. However, when, let’s just say things changed in the bedroom, I knew my now ex-husband had been ‘elsewhere’. Despite his denial – a woman knows! This set in motion what was to become the most turbulent 4 years of my life.
The final nail in the coffin came in December 2016.
My ex had been born in Malacca, Malaysia and the family emigrated to Perth in the mid ’60s. They faced many challenges despite which, they flourished. With 5 children in a new country, the matriarch stormed ahead to set up a new life for her family. I would like to say I have admiration for this woman, although the admirable qualities are quelled by the pain and torture she has caused to my family over the past 30 years, I struggle to find an ounce of compassion. Without a single doubt in my mind, she was the major cause of the demise of our marriage. Again, the reasons are many although the hypocrisy of the Catholic religion yet again shows its true colours!
Godfrey has never returned to Malacca since the day his family left as a small child, he will tell you he has no clear memory and therefore no connection although in December 2016, he had made the decision to travel to back to Malacca with his mother, brother and sister and their families. The girls and I were sincerely happy that he had made the decision to return, to go with his family, to relive their childhood. He talked to the girls about taking them the following year, something I had hoped would come to fruition so the girls could learn more about their Malaysian heritage.
As the departure date neared, the trip was falling apart – his mother and sister had pulled out although he was still going with his brother and family. As he was walking out the door, I casually asked when his brother would arrive. “The 28th!” I was shocked, here was a man, returning to his country of birth for the first time in over 50 years, travelling away from his children at Christmas, to spend it on his own in a hotel room.
I have known this man intimately for over 30 years – this would never happen! I call bullshit. He argued that I was forever causing problems when his family was involved. I’ve never been a snooper – I decided to snoop!
I started on his Facebook – turns out there was a lovely photo of a young Indonesian lady “Risky Janita” snuggled in the arms of Godfrey, as her profile pic! A very quick search of photos showed several images of holiday snaps and lovers embraced throughout Asia. The catalyst and the turning point for me to shed him from my life, was when I realised he had gone on holidays with Risky Janita instead of attending his youngest daughter’s high school graduation. A decision, I’m sure he will regret for the remainder of his days although for me, the point of no return. It really didn’t shock me, it was more of an “I knew it” moment.
This is just one of the many photos that we were able to locate on the internet.
I had vowed when we separated I would keep things as amicable as possible, to keep the balance for the children. We were still living in the same house, albeit living very separate lives. I have always been very honest and upfront, telling my ex each step of the way – when I moved out of the bedroom – the house, when I filed for divorce etc. I had always said if there was a third party involved, we could no longer carry on the way we had been. My new discovery was the ammunition I needed to catapult myself into a new life and separate from the destructive lifestyle we had all been living in for the past few years.
I hatched a plan to move Godfrey out of the family home – he had obviously moved on. I started planning how I would assist him to find a place in Brisbane, near to his work and get him all set up in an apartment. Make the move easy for him. I started packing his bedroom and happened across an external hard drive in the bottom of a laundry basket. To say I had opened “Pandora’s box” doesn’t even scratch the surface.
So in a nutshell, what did I find…
$100k cash in a bank account
An apartment in Batam, Indonesia
Several email addresses
Holiday bookings to various Asian destinations
I can back date Risky Janita to 2012 before I left the marriage and here I had the proof. Godfrey spent time for work in Batam in 2009, so my gut tells me it had been going on since then.
Any second thoughts I may have had about my decision to send Godfrey packing was lost, I took to the task like a rat up a drainpipe. I booked storage pods and proceeded to pack him into a box. 25 years of ‘in case stuff’ went in to boxes with his name on it.
Keeping to my word of always telling him up front what’s happening – I had text him when I found the photo on Facebook (heard nothing), I sent him photos of him being packed into boxes (heard nothing).
I had found Booking.com holiday at the Mandalay Bay Resort on Singapore harbour for New Year’s, which I promptly cancelled (non-refundable). Let’s see if that jars him into action. Upon arriving at the luxury resort with his girlfriend and her child (not sure if it’s his) to find his reservation cancelled, he hastily put himself on a plane to return to the Gold Coast, which was no longer home.
I hold no shame for what happened – it’s not my shame to carry. I was deceived by someone I loved, by someone I had entrusted with not only my life but the lives of my children.
I’m not a wallflower that lets the world pass me by – if I have a fault, it’s that I trusted too much or is it, that I just didn’t care…
I’ve procrastinated writing about my visit to fair shores of Ireland – it was such an emotional visit; I don’t want the bubble to burst. I’m frightened if I write the words on paper, they may erase from memory and they are truly memories to be cherished!
After an extremely amusing flight from Denmark via Belgium, I excitedly board the flight to Belfast to visit with friends from our Saudi days and who I hadn’t seen for about 8 years. Paul and Maura were the first people I contacted, over 12 months earlier, when I had originally planned this vacation to work around when they would be home, so I could be sure to see them.
The first thing I noticed was young Conor driving! Mairead has grown into the most beautiful young lady, Jack was sporting facial hair and my dear friends, Paul and Maura – just the same – as welcoming as ever! I only had a quick visit with Paul, as he was due to return to the desert and I was thrilled that I was able to celebrate their wedding anniversary with them.
I offered to cook dinner for the family and Paul’s mother and sister joined us. Whilst out shopping I tried to duck out of the way of the ever watchful Maura to grab a bunch of flowers for them. In my haste, it turned out I grabbed artificial flowers – the first time in my life I’ve purchased artificial – it wasn’t until I went to put them into the car, I realised the error of my ways! Deciding they would enjoy a laugh every time they looked at the flowers – I proceeded with my everlasting gift!
It was great to catch up with Paul, albeit a very short visit although his hospitality continued in his absence, he was kind of enough to fill his cellar and leave us the key! Prosecco, Prosecco, Prosecco – bottle, after bottle, after bottle! I’ve finally found a family who can certainly give me a run for my money, I’ve decided my Irish heritage must be the strongest gene I possess!
After a few days, I decided I needed to detox from the Moran household. I took off for a few days to see the Irish countryside. I headed towards Enniskillen which has its city centre located on an island surrounded by the River Erne. With many 14th century buildings, it’s a paradise for the history buffs. The view from the river shows the city in a different light!
Leaving Enniskillen behind me I’m heading in the general direction of Galway in the South – I notice when I cross the border from North to South, the speed signs are now in kilometres as opposed to miles, the road markings also reflect a European flavour – put my Irish pounds away and dig back out the Euro. On my travels I happened across, Carrick-on-Shannon – steeped in history, the town was a picture perfect example of what you imagine a small Irish country town to be.
After checking in to literally the local Inn – I ventured to a pub that opened in 1879 – spent the night sitting at the bar listening to a great local muso and chatting to the many patrons who just couldn’t get over the fact I was here on my own from Australia. Here in Carrick-on-Shannon, to be sure!
Finally arriving in Galway about 3.00pm the next afternoon, I quickly jumped on my Airbnb App and had accommodation within about 10 minutes I found my way to meet ‘Andrew’s Da’ who would show me around. It turns out I had arrived in Galway in time for their racing carnival – it appears to be the biggest event of the year.
I was treated to a personalised tour of the Galway district, visiting the oldest pub in Ireland – one from the 1700’s and ended up spending the evening with the most gorgeous couple as their son had listed their place on Airbnb and I was their first guest! I had a few hours to myself and yes, you’re right visited another pub! Met a group of young people who had been travelling for over 6 months with dreadlocks, tattoos, piercing etc. I don’t think I’ve enjoyed a more interesting afternoon – absolutely wonderful group of young people.
I cannot explain the hospitality of the Irish – you really must visit to truly experience their openness and welcoming nature.
After Galway, I excitedly headed in the direction of Dublin, where I was to meet more friends from my Saudi days – Mark, Marty and two boys who were now men – Colin and Darragh. Marty was working, so Mark met me and we did a double deck bus tour of Dublin, yet again expanding my knowledge of Irish heritage – the divide between the Irish and the English. I urge anyone that visits to take particular notice of the letterboxes – something I definitely would have missed. Thank you Mark!
Deciding that we just didn’t get through all the gossip we needed to, I convinced Marty to jump in the car – literally 5 mins before I left – and come back to Belfast/Antrim with me. I was off to see the monolithic tombs – older than the pyramids. It was disappointing that when I arrived, I found out to actually visit the tombs you need to book weeks in advance. I visited the museum and of course, it’s now on my bucket list to return. It’s a definite MUST SEE, if you visit Ireland – absolutely fascinating and I had never heard of them.
We arrived back in Antrim to begin a weekend that I will treasure for the rest of my life. The only thing that would have made this weekend better, is if my girls – Manon and Dana had been with us. Thank goodness for modern technology – skype was a blessing!
Marion and her daughter Chelsea – Manon’s nearest and dearest friend from Saudi had arrived along with Hayley, who I hadn’t seen since Saudi days. I can honestly say I am truly blessed to have these wonderful people in my life. I know, sounds corny right – but we had the most amazing few days together – there was 15 years between our visits, it was like I had seen them yesterday and we laughed and shared our stories, our children’s achievements, we discussed family, friends and vow to not let it be another 15 years between get togethers!
Words cannot express to Maura, Paul, Jack, Connor and Mairead what my visit to them has meant. Sheila, Leonard, Kate and families – you know you’re now my family too. Sweet, sweet Kaleb! As I write these words, I pause to wipe away the tears (ok I’ve had a few Jameson’s but I really mean it) I’ve had the time of my life! There’s a song in there somewhere. I can’t wait for their next visit to Australia, although I fear it will be me back to Ireland again!
I’m off on my next adventure and of course, more tears! I’m heading back to Edinburgh with Marion and Chelsea and can’t wait to see Connor and Ryan. The Agate family were my family when mine were absent – I have loved, and love, these children as my own. They were beautiful, accomplished, gorgeous young adults! Connor still the rascal of the family – who doesn’t really remember me and couldn’t work out why this bloody Aussie woman knew so many intimate details of when he was small. I firmly believe that if another 15 years goes by before I see them again, my heart will still ache for these children as it does now. Yes, more tears!
Although whilst in Scotland, I have fulfilled a tick off my bucket list – I drive my children crazy, my favourite movie of all time – Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves – not so much for the movie but Bryan Adams music – I’m a die-hard fan of Bryan Adams and the only way to listen to his music is loud and singing along!
Imagine my sheer joy at finding out that he has a concert…
Bryan baby – singing just for me and my new friends
So so so COLD!!
Not Bryan Adams – but Goldie boy performing at Edinburgh Festival…
I leave Edinburgh with a promise that I’ll return next year. I only hope the children will venture down under and visit us in Australia!
My next and final destination of this amazing journey is to visit with Kerry, Richard and Ben. It’s an unusual friendship – Kerry and I – although I know, Kerry and I will be friends forever – many years may pass until we see each other although how friendship will always be treasured. Ben – my goodness, an amazing young man who has life ahead of him and of course, who I would love to see my way in Australia!
Kerry came to London to spend the last few days of this intrepid journey with me – the memories of the Harrods’ pastry counter will be forever sketched in my memory as a favoured event! The champagne, the chatter and the Kinky Boots (a story for another time) will bring a smile to my face for a lifetime.
There’s so much more I could write about Ireland, Scotland and England and my visits with the people – I really can’t explain how much their friendship means to me.
I actively encourage all those that read this post, to embrace the friendship – step out of your comfort zone, you never know who you may meet that will change your life.
Oh Paul, I’ve started stocking the fridge with Veuve – let me know the arrival date!
Guilty, guilty, guilty – I had to get that written so I can start on my next journey. I’m on plane to my next venture…
Ok so I’ve decided that I could get used to this lifestyle – I love being ‘on the road’ meeting people from every corner of the world, hearing their stories, their travels. Every person I’ve met has had their own opinion of me travelling on my own! When I walk into the hotel bar at 10.00pm at night and there’s a group of about 15 businessmen – I split the group liking the parting of the red sea to get to the bar to order my nightly caffeine (with a shot of whiskey) fix – they joke and laugh and dig me about being Australian and ordering coffee! Inevitably the conversation turns to me travelling on my own – they’re in shock, they’re astounded – “Are you not worried?” they ask. “About what – running into a group of delinquent men such as yourselves all held up in the hotel bar? No I’m not.” I take my coffee and head back to my room with a little sneer on my face.
I’m constantly astounded by how many people have thought I’m brave to do this on my own – I don’t see it as brave. I think it’s more about believing in myself, knowing that I’m a confident strong independent woman who is comfortable with my own company and readily able to talk to a variety of different people from all walks of life.
Some of my highlights:
dinner with an older couple from Belgium who were holidaying in Italy;
a day on a boat in the Ligurian Sea with a group of young lads on summer break from University in the States;
spending an afternoon at the Baths in Hungary chatting with a group of British Police celebrating one’s impending wedding (yep, Buck’s Party);
an afternoon of beer tasting with an Irish couple in Bruges;
dinner with a Danish family in their home in Copenhagen;
an interesting flight with five Danish lads heading to a music festival in Belgium;
an evening in Galway with the parents of my Airbnb host;
an elderly lady with an amazing Seaside Thistle, who had never met an Australian;
an invitation to stay with a family at their holiday home in Guardbridge, near St Andrews in Scotland;
a group from Aberdeen, who shared a drink and a taxi before Bryan Adams concert;
It’s really not hard, start by people watching and just pass the time of day with someone. You’ll be amazed at how friendly people are – if you just listen they’ll share their story and you’ll get the chance to share yours.
Challenge – #Ellen, #Getaway, #SoloFemaleTravel – let me know if you know someone who would like a 52-year-old woman on her own, to travel the world and encourage other woman, to take a step, trust themselves, that they can do this – it’s ok to spread their wings and fly.
If travelling is something you’ve dreamed of doing and you’re not sure where to start, I’m happy to help – Ask me – I’m listening.
The hardest thing about travelling on your own, is mastering the selfie!
The train (THALYS) from Paris to Bruges, was definitely an experience. Seats were luxurious with meals served, similar to those on the plane, although with actual cutlery! Complimentary Wi-Fi and plenty of wine!
Bruges was full of surprises, a definite must-see. If you’re travelling in Europe, don’t hesitate to add this gorgeous village to your itinerary. I had planned to stay for two days and ended up staying for five. I could go back and spend a month. It’s cobblestoned streets, lined by the most life altering chocolate shops can only be best described as a little part of Utopia! As well as the finest sweet shops, there are several extraordinary delicatessens selling cheese from the Gods. I think, without a doubt, Bruges was the most decadent place I’ve visited.
For those of you who are beer drinkers – they have over 1200 types of beers available to suit all palates. I spent an adventurous afternoon on a stool in 2be Beer Wall attempting to try as many beers as possible although I fear all I took away from this escapade was an extremely bad case of beer gut!
Coconut Beer
Cherry Beer
A selection!
Whilst meandering through this fairy-tale medieval town, I happen upon a traditional folk dancing evening, held once per month in the local square (food market by day), it’s an opportunity for locals to gather, celebrate and learn dances from bygone eras.
From Bruges, I also spent the day visiting WWI sites which incorporated Flanders Fields, the In Flanders Field Museum, German bunkers along with several memorial sites and graveyards for various Nations who were involved in the war. It was a solemn day and to actually see trenches and dugouts gives you a bit more of an understanding of the hardships our soldiers went through during these battles. I was astounded to learn, that every week, the Belgium Army travels through the fields, collecting the live ammunition the farmers have uncovered during the week’s work. The day of our visit, we happened across several pieces of live ammo awaiting collection.
Tyne Cot Cemetery
Graves
Trench
Wild Poppies
Live ammo awaiting collection
German Graveyard
Prior to the war, the population of the region was in excess of 26,000, here we are 100 years on, and only slightly more than half, have returned to the area. Due to the excessive amount of lead based ammunition that was dumped on these fields, the land remains poisoned and the many farmers that fled during the war, had nothing to return to.
I’m sorry to leave Bruges, it’s truly a remarkable city and one that I look forward to returning to. Although excitement is in the air, I’ve decided to take the train through to Copenhagen – how you ask? Read on….
Copenhagen, Denmark
I had heard, prior to my journey, about the train that goes on a ferry boat from Germany across to Denmark. I couldn’t get my head around this and put it on my “To Do” list. At last I was heading off on this latest adventure. Boarding the train in Bruges with a 13-hour train ride ahead, I settled back to enjoy the scenery. The train loads onto the ferry like a motor vehicle, if you’re not looking for it, you may well miss it. Once aboard, you must disembark the train and head to the upper levels of the boat. With duty free shopping available, it’s quite easy to lose track of time and before long you find yourself, re-boarding the train. The whole experience being quite surreal.
View from the train
Train on a boat!
On the way to Copenhagen!
On my final change of train in Hamburg, I found myself in a closed cabin with a Danish family – Nicole, Claus and Nicholas. I was fortunate to spend approx. 5 hours with the most delightful young family who subsequently invited me to dinner. Nicholas was a young lad that was fascinated with my travels and I now have a greater understanding of both Dr. Who and Harry Potter! I was thrilled to accept their very kind dinner invitation and looked forward to seeing them again.
Upon arrival into Copenhagen, I first noticed that I had booked accommodation on the ‘wrong’ side of the railway line. Copenhagen is expensive, ranking the third most expensive city in Europe and didn’t I know it! Whilst the hotel was well located for visiting the city, the hookers and drug rehab place across the road was, at times, a little daunting! Saying that however, I never had any problems. I was merely two blocks from Tivoli Gardens and within walking distance to the many wonderful sights of the City.
Tivoli Gardens was an absolute highlight, a theme park dating back to 1843 which has retained its 19th century charm. I was somewhat hesitant at first, thinking it was merely a theme park. Tivoli Gardens is so much more than a theme park. I was captivated with a performance of a Cinderella Ballet Pantomime. I had never seen this type of performance before and it was incredible! I will actively seek to find more of these type of shows. It was this modern, rock, entertaining, theatrical performance that left the audience cheering and begging for more!
Another marching band
Tivoli Theatre
Cinderella
A snippet of Cinderella!
Copenhagen is also a city of architecture, being host to one of Europe’s most well respected architectural colleges, it’s easy to see why the structural artists flock here to study. Unfortunately, I did not happen across our Princess Mary although I fear she wasn’t hanging out in the same suburbs as I may have been! Very much a thriving city although I felt it was quite disjointed, there were certain pockets of beauty but overall failed to impress.
I was anxious to leave as I was heading for a catch up with friends, I had not seen for many years! Next, Ireland, Scotland and England – Lasting friendships!
I did however manage to find myself on a flight from Denmark to Belgium with five young men full of handsomeness, on their way to a music festival in Brussels. As I took my seat on the plane, I was placed in a row by myself, directly in front of these lads, with no other passengers in sight. They had been drinking, I had been drinking and as they say – the rest is history!
A Motley Crew
Umm….
Oh dear – my new FB friends!
Their mothers would be proud, they shared their drinks, laughs and even an invite to a Music Festival. “What bands are playing?” enquires the 52yo female. “Bands? No bands, just DJ’s.” replies the handsome young lads. Alas I’m knocked back into the generational gap!
As I head towards Berlin, I am filled with nervous anxiety – I’m heading to visit with friends that I have not seen for nearly 20 years. During our years living in Saudi Arabia, we had become extremely good friends with a Brit couple Al and Carole. Our communication since 1997 had solely been via Facebook, a like here, a comment there and now I had been so bold to ask them to stay.
When I arrived, they were waiting on the platform and it was like I had seen them yesterday. We immediately launched into sharing our histories for the past 20 years and for 5 days we caught up in each other’s lives and cemented our friendship for another 20 years!
It is true what is said about expatriates, friends become family and friendships last a lifetime! We shared several bottles of Al’s wine, lucky his monthly wine club order arrived during my stay!
As well as visiting the sights of Berlin, it was an absolute thrill to catch up with Al and Carole. Carole and I were able to spend a wonderful morning in the sun, in her spa catching up on days gone by.
20 years!
What’s not to enjoy – Sun and Spa!
Dinner with friends!
Dana (Daughter no. 2) arrived the second day and our sightseeing adventures commenced. We ventured into the city to visit the Brandenburg Gate, the Wall, Checkpoint Charlie and of course, the many WWII memorial sites throughout the city. Berlin is so much more than just what remains after WWII. It’s a fast paced modern city and you would be surprised at how many shoe shops I visited during just one day until we found the exact pair, Dana had been looking for! Thank you Berlin Mall!
The public rail system did present us with challenges however. You have Regional Trains (RER) and S-Bahns that all appear to run in and out of the same stations and lines. On the weekend, there was work to the lines so some trains didn’t go to where timetables said they would. Totally exhausted from a day’s sightseeing, we found ourselves late at night without a train to take us back to Blankenfelde where Al and Carole were waiting patiently to collect us from the Station! So after three days of extensive train travel through Berlin City, we were still none the wiser however could recognise a station before they announced it on the train! Beware for future visitors to this City – don’t leave catching your train until the last minute, get to where you’re going early and then relax and take coffee!
The Brandenburg Gate was difficult to experience, as there was a festival being held in the park that encompassed the gate (you will see from the photos). Checkpoint Charlie Museum is a definite must visit whilst in Berlin – I could have spent a week at the Museum and still not have read all the displays. At the actual checkpoint, there are two fellows dressed as soldiers and you can have your photo taken. Whilst I’ve come across many ‘tacky’ tourist photo opportunities in my travels, this one ground on my sense of respect. I couldn’t help but think of the individuals that had passed through this spot, the agonies, the challenges, the lives of the both the living and the dead and the hope of so many that wished to pass through had been reduced to this. As we meandered our way through the city, it was astounding to continually come across the path of the wall, marked out by a paved line. It’s incomprehensible to imagine this City literally cut in two. Even though the wall has now been down for some years, there remains a subtle contrast between East and West. The highlight of the sightseeing tours is of course, the artwork on the East Gallery – it’s moving, it’s thought provoking, it’s crude however all stands for someone’s representation of matters at hand at the time.
Dana in Berlin
Brandenburg Gate
Berlin Wall
Berlin Wall
I was incredulous at the difference between Sachenhausen Camp and what I had witnessed in Auschwitz-Birkenhau. The latter being an extermination camp with Sachenhausen being a working camp. Whilst there were still deaths and persecutions of the minority, it appeared to be mild, in comparison with the atrocities of Auschwitz-Brikenhau. As the guide took us through the camp and explained how the inmates were provided three meals per day albeit basic stews with little meat I couldn’t help but recall the Guide’s explanation of meals in Auschwitz being “they were fortunate to receive a watery soup, once per day – enough to keep them alive”. The sleeping quarters where three to a bed was deemed unbearable, in comparison at least eight or more were laid out on wooden slats, tightly bound for warmth and survival.
I suppose what I found to be the major difference was the size of the camps. As I’m sure all of you are aware Auschwitz-Birkenhau was an extermination camp of the worst kind – there were four massive gas chambers that each exterminated over 1000 people at a time.
By no means, would I ever presume those interned at Sachenhausen ‘got off easy’ however I don’t believe there should be a comparison to those interned at Auschwitz-Birkenhau.
Gates to Sachsenhausen
Within the walls (Sachsenhausen) Gravel marks where the shelters were
Prison uniform
Incinerator
Amsterdam
Working to Dana’s itinerary now, we depart Berlin and head for Amsterdam. Dana and I enjoyed our 6-hour train journey, gave us time to catch up, sleep and plan our Amsterdam trip. Banksy has an exhibition, so that’s definitely on the list. We plan to visit a windmill and cheese makers. As I’ve been to Amsterdam previously, I mentioned to Dana the Red Light District and the Coffee Houses. She’s not sure about either.
Our Airbnb apartment was literally a two-minute walk from the Station, navigating the narrow winding staircase was certainly challenging – thank you to our lovely host, Tyler who came to our rescue and we would rely on gravity to get back down!
Once settled, we meandered through the City and of course, more shopping was on the agenda. After Dana’s shopping itch had been scratched, we then took in some of the local sights. Dana was astounded at the availability of drugs and relevant paraphernalia. I thought I would be the ‘Oh so cool, Mother’ and suggested, as it was legal, she may like to try a cookie or two. She admonished me for suggesting such a thing and was not prepared to get ‘baked’ with her mother! Phew… escaped that easily enough.
Our first escapade was to visit the Banksy Exhibition and we were certainly not disappointed, the artwork is amazing although his messages far more relevant. I was pleasantly surprised to see many young people visiting the exhibition and healthy discussions taking place concerning his pieces. Whilst the placement of his artwork is, at times controversial, if it opens the discussion and brings awareness to many worthy plights, I can’t help but support the path he has chosen.
Wandering through the cobblestone streets and corners within the vibrant city, brings us upon many buildings from eras gone by. The uneven surface of the pathways leaves you in awe of the multitude of people that have walked through these streets for hundreds of years. I’m astounded at the development that has taken place in the 25 years since my last visit, modern, gigantic structures being placed among the tumbling down ruins of the past, although for some strange reason, it fits. The Dutch have been able to bring the old and new together to ensure the landscape of their city remains unique.
The following day we hopped aboard our tour bus to visit a Windmill, Dutch Museum, Cheese factory and a small Dutch village. Whilst the tour bus was not really our thing, we managed to have a fun filled day. Our first stop was to visit a working Windmill, of all the Windmills, in all the towns, the one we visit makes peanut oil! As daughter no. 2, is anaphylactic to nuts this was quite a challenge, as Linseed was on the menu that day, all was well. A few sneezes here and there and the visit was without incident. It was astounding to see the inner workings of a Windmill that was over 300 years old still plodding along day in and day out.
The cheese factory was located in the small village of Volendam, which lay along near the mouth of IJ Bay. Such a picturesque village although inundated with visitors trawling through their streets and back gardens. I suspect it’s a love/hate relationship with tourists. We were able to find a Goat’s cheese that Dana loved, so despite the crowds, the trip was definitely a bonus!
The following day we were hoping to visit Anne Frank’s House although the wait was about 4-hours in freezing windy weather! I’m led to believe you need to purchase your tickets weeks in advance or face the cold. We opted not to wait and took to the canals for a tour of the Amsterdam waterways. Seeing the city from the water, is quite different, travelling under narrow low bridges which have stood the test of time for centuries.
Amsterdam is a wonderful city, the locals, if you can find them, are extremely friendly and tolerant of the masses. One of our favourite moments, would have to be the breakfast at P&W (Pancakes and Waffles) – a small basic café run by young Egyptian/Lebanese fellow who just does crepes albeit the best crepes I’ve ever eaten!
Pancakes & Waffles
Banana, Strawberry and Maple Syrup
Mushroom, Cheese and Bacon
Paris
When Dana made the decision to visit and then we planned our visit to Paris, we had no idea that our timing coincided with the UEFA 2016 Euro Final – possibly the busiest weekend in Paris’ annual calendar. Accommodation was at a premium, we ended up in a small Airbnb in the heart of the city although at $200 per night, my most expensive accommodation for the duration of the trip!
Paris is as wonderful as ever, we spent a day in the Louvre and could have stayed longer – the most amazing place! Although the whole Mona Lisa gig is overrated and they seriously need to look at crowd control. If you happen to visit, don’t get carried away with Mona Lisa turn around and you will be enthralled at the painting directly behind you which is the Wedding Feast portraying Christ turning water into wine.
There were so many highlights within the Louvre although for me the Coronation of Napoleon I was a standout. When you hear that Napoleon’s mother was never actually in attendance although Napoleon instructed artist, Jacques Louis David, to include his mother in the recording of history. It reminds me to question and not believe everything you see or hear, to accept that certain historic events can be retold according to the privileged and how they wanted the story portrayed. Would the painting have become the sensation it is today had he not had events altered?
Coronation of Napoleon I
Mona Lisa
Venus de Milo
Centaur teased by Eros
Louvre Museum
Baroque model of boat
Statue in open Courtyard
King Louis XIV Crib
Loved this with the children climbing the rope!
Our trip to the Eiffel tower was chaotic due to crowds preparing for the football final, as the fan zone was located in the park near the base of the tower. You may recall the ugly scenes where police used tear gas and water cannons to break up the crowd. Thankfully, our visit was much earlier in the day and was not marred by this nonsense. We were able to fully enjoy our time at the top of the Eiffel Tower in spite of me splurging for a €15 glass of Moet and Chandon to have it spilt down the front of me by an over excited fellow tourist!
Mother and Daughter at the top!
View from the top
View from the bottom
A must do, on Dana’s Europe trip list, was to visit Euro Disney – whilst she’s been to Disneyland, Stateside, she was so young and really did not remember her visit. So off to Euro Disney we go! Dana managed to get her Mickey ears and shots in front of the Princess Palace. I think her featured moment was to beat me on the Buzz Lightyear ride. When my girls were small I never allowed them to play with or have any type of toy that depicted a gun. When visiting Disneyland, I blitzed everyone shooting the laser on the Buzz Lightyear ride, it became a legendary story Manon likes to recall! Dana took great pleasure in annihilating me on this ride.
I loved this day with Dana, she will probably sigh at me, but it reminded me that she’s still my baby and I cherished this day to be able to relive a little bit of the little girl still inside!
Princess in front of her castle
The Queen appears
Love, love, love this – riding electric cars
Just off the Indiana Jones’ Rollercoaster!
A few years ago, I was able to travel to Italy with Manon and I’ve now had the opportunity to travel with Dana – despite all my travels these are my favourite travel memories – it’s the stories I’ll retell to my grand-babies when I get them. I would actively encourage mothers out there to take time, to spend with your children – individually, it may not be an overseas holiday but just one on one time. We tend to do this when they’re small but to spend time with them when they’re young adults is another stepping stone!
After 10 days, it was time for Dana to head home and for me to carry on with my travels, I reluctantly left Dana at the Charles de Gaulle and headed towards Bruges, Belgium.
I was in two minds as to whether to detour and take in the sights of Budapest. It was a city I had heard was fabulous and intriguing although was never sure it would be a place I would enjoy. How wrong I was – I have been extremely fortunate to have travelled substantially in my life and after now visiting Budapest – I can’t wait to return. It may actually be my favourite city in the world! It’s alive with culture and the Hungarian people are welcoming, friendly and after securing their win in the Group for the UEFA 2016 Euro, quite possibly the happiest!
My first encounter with the wonderful locals, was upon arrival at my Airbnb, my host, Joseph was waiting for me and is an international tourism guru. He had a welcome pack sorted which included discount cards to local restaurants, city maps, guidebooks and so much more. If you’re planning your next visit to this amazing city, I would strongly recommend Joseph’s place. It’s well located for sightseeing and only a few metres to a street known for its gastronomic delights!
Cafes
New York Cafe
Liberty/Freedom Bridge
Afternoon tea in NY Cafe
I boarded my Hop On Hop Off tour bus the first morning to get my bearings and each sight appeared more impressive than the last. From Heroes square to the Széchenyi Baths to Palaces and Parliamentary buildings, each sight held you in awe with both beauty and history.
Highlights of Budapest would have to be the night cruise, seeing the City from the water is truly gorgeous, the House of Parliament is quite possibly the most beautiful building I’ve encountered on my journey thus far. It is quite simply magnificent! The streets are lined with lush green trees, each restaurant has planter pots with greenery and flowers. The cobblestoned walkways are filled with garden areas.
For those that don’t follow the European football league, the UEFA Euro 2016 has been on whilst I’ve been in Europe. Each time there is a game, the cities come alive, games are being telecast in every restaurant, bar and public area. Of course, the atmosphere is vibrant and, should the favoured team win, the city’s festivities begin. I have been somewhat of a lucky charm it seems – I was in Budapest when Hungary won their group, I happen to be in Kraków, when Poland went through to the next round and Berlin, when Germany secured their place in the semi-final against France. For those who like a little wager, I’ll be in Paris for both the semi-final and final – I may just have a dabble on France!
Hungary Celebrates!
I had saved my final day in Budapest for the Széchenyi Baths. I was somewhat hesitant, coming from Australia’s Gold Coast where public ‘baths’ or pools are really not to everyone’s liking as we’re so near to the best beaches in the world, I anxiously paid about AUD25 to enter this public bathing area and shuddered at the crowds. Not to be deterred from experiencing this one in a life time adventure, I took my place amongst the crowds albeit on the most deserted spot I could find and settled in.
It was merely minutes until I was joined in my secluded spot by a group of British fellows celebrating a ‘Buck’s Party’ in Budapest for the weekend. Try as I might, I ignored them and continued to read my kindle – however it was not long when I found myself in conversation with the groom to be, as he relayed to me how in love he was and couldn’t wait to marry the girl of his dreams! For a group of lads on a Buck’s Party weekend, they were remarkably well behaved and appeared more interested in this “old enough to be my mum” woman who had decided to travel Europe solo! They were not the only group at the Baths that day celebrating a Buck’s Party, another group of intrepid young Brits were also on the trip of discovery before heading into wedded bliss although the fate of young Tom was more left to the Gods! His ‘punishment’ was for him to dress in traditional Polish female attire for the duration of the weekend, as he plans to wed in Poland at the end of the month! I have lost count of how many stag parties I’ve come across although ladies, I can assure, with both of the groups that I had the pleasure to talk with, all conversations led back to their girls back home – it makes me wonder, if peer group pressure and the necessity of a ‘stag do’ is really all it’s cracked up to be!
I’d like to give a shout out to #TomGoesWild and wish him all the best for his marriage in Poland – hoping of course, he’s more suitably dressed than when I last saw him!
Selfie at the Baths
Oh Dear, Poor Tom!
Budapest is definitely the jewel of Europe and without a doubt, must be on everyone’s bucket list!
Kraków, Poland
My reason for travelling to Kraków was to experience the Auschwitz and Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camps. Along with the rest of the population we hear and learn of the atrocities that were committed, at not only these camps but many others, I wanted to pay my respects to those who lost their lives but also to the survivors and families who have been, and continue to be, affected by actions that took place.
I did not take a plenitude of photos, I’m more than happy to answer any questions anyone may have regarding my visit. I can tell you that I was moved to tears on several occasions throughout the day. I now have a greater respect for survivors and those whose lives have been impacted. I also believe that I now have a greater understanding of what it means to be a minority as not only were Jews persecuted but gypsies, homosexuals, disabled, anyone that did not agree with the views of those that believed they are more superior. The stories of survival are astounding and whilst we must continue to learn of the atrocities to ensure that history cannot repeat itself and I believe that education is the key although as I sit here and write this I can’t help but think of the genocide that is currently happening in various countries within the African continent along with other eastern countries. Have we learnt from these past brutalities?
Collapsed Extermination Chamber – Bombed by German forces trying to destroy evidence
Border fences
Ghetto Memorial
As to Kraków , it contains some of the oldest history in Europe and is a city sure to charm any visitor. I believe Kraków is somewhat tarnished by its involvement in WWII and continues to strive to leave the past behind although relying on the past to get them to the future. I was surprised to see Jewish Synagogues and graveyards within the boundaries of Jewish quarters from eras gone by. Again it’s a city that comes alive in the main square of an evening with street performers, horse and carriage rides and a multitude of restaurants and cafés.
Prague, Czech Republic
Prague has always been on my ‘To Do’ list, I’ve heard it’s a city that offers amazing nightlife and plenty of sights to see. My memories of Prague will always be the meat that was on offer, there were market stall holders that offer plates of fresh pork, that’s it – a plate of pork cut from the spit along with a ½ litre of beer! I also noticed more homeless and beggars on the streets of Prague and whilst sitting in a café next to a couple of gentleman, they were offered lap dances, whilst they waited for their evening meal! It’s the first time, I’ve not felt safe walking the streets at night, I was sure to be back at my apartment before dark (which of course, is about 10.30pm), the red and white suits of men vying for customers to their private men only clubs, was unnerving.
It was also a city where I came across blatant racism towards a Jewish couple It was a menial matter of tickets for a boat cruise, I’m not sure who was at fault although once the Czech’s started complaining in front of a boatload of tourists about the “Jews” and “those people”, I couldn’t help myself. I stepped in to ease the situation and of course, they had respect for such a bold white woman travelling alone who would speak up for ‘those people’. I would not normally hesitate to step in to any situation, however, considering I had just been to a place where Jews were persecuted in their thousands, I certainly was never going to sit back and watch someone attack them, when I could do something about it.
I can tick the box to say I’ve been to Prague and I try and gauge whether I would recommend a place and would like my girls to visit – Prague is a place I wouldn’t want my girls to visit! I fear Manon may have already been!
Next stop – Berlin, Amsterdam and Paris – all with daughter no. 2!
Before I leave this beautiful area, I wanted to spend a couple of days in Tuscany, my friend and travel agent extraordinaire, Debbie, has guided me to Villa Sant Andrea – it’s a beautiful villa whose cellar dates back to 11th century. What more could I ask for. It’s a couple of hours drive away. After battling through a horrendous rain and hail, I find myself at Villa Sant Andrea in a small village of Fabbrica, an amazing villa which sits on the peak of the hill surveying 600 hectares of prime Tuscan vineyards. It is quite simply breathtakingly beautiful.
I arrive late afternoon, so have a late lunch early dinner at La Scuderia in a neighbouring village – Badia a Passignano. This restaurant would have the largest selection of wines that I have ever seen in one place. I especially like the 2l bottles that they offer! It takes having a bottle of wine to whole other level.
L’Scuderia
Gotta love a 2lt bottle of wine
Small menu = food, large menu = wine!
Badia a Passignano
The following morning, I toured the wine cellar, albeit giant large wine barrels like those in Australia although finding them sitting in a medieval cellar adds a new dimension. Following the tour, I spent a few hours by the Villa pool, taking in some sunshine and surrounding myself in these remarkable hills. The plan was to join my fellow wine tasters for dinner, in the local gourmet restaurant for the area. Unfortunately, by 3.30pm I was bed-bound with a gastro bug that very quickly ended my Tuscan adventure. I was uncertain as to whether I would make it back to Levanto the next day although after an unsettled night, I was on the road to recovery the next morning, I needed to get the car hire back and get sorted for my onwards journey.
Entry to medieval cellar
Perfect temperature
Dinner with newfound friends
One of the things I love about travelling is the many people you meet. During my travels, I’ve enjoyed boat trips with four young American lads who have just finished College, taking time out before they start their working career, a family from Australia taking a dream holiday with their mother who is in the first stages of Alzheimer’s, a wine tasting tour with two couples from Austria. As I’m standing on the corner of Casella attempting to get phone coverage, a couple from Belgium stop to ask directions, they were merely 100m from their destination.
As I wandered down the hill for my aperitifs that afternoon, I happened across the Belgium couple getting out of their vehicle. We stopped and chatted, about accommodation, they enquired about sites to see and restaurants to eat at. As I’m now ‘in the know’ I was more than happy to share my knowledge of the area before I continued on my way. Almost at the bottom of the hill, the Belgium couple offer me a ride into the village. I gratefully accept – I never miss an opportunity to chat with people and learn more about their travels and where they come from. I now have a place to stay and tour guides in Antwerp!
On my last night, I wanted to return to a couple of my favourite haunts, the local bar and L’Articiocca restaurant where I did my cooking classes. Upon arriving at the bar, Ermanno and Clara (L’Articiocca) were already at the bar with other friends, this was their one night off. They were joining other friends and asked me along for dinner, which was being cooked ) by one girl’s mother. Never one to miss an opportunity, I tagged along. Diggio (Belgium) works in Cinque Terre teaching Standup Paddle surfing, Kiara (strong Italian woman), Emmanuel (strong silent Italian man), Michael and Elle (British couple) and Suzie (Michael’s mother) who owns a property here and has been holidaying in Levanto since she was a child. Each with their own story of how they came to Levanto and never left – It was truly a wonderful evening with great food and company.
I embark on the early morning train headed for Verona – my next adventures await. With only one night in Verona, of course the highlights will be visiting the Montague and Capulet families! I decide to see this City aboard the eyes of a Hop On Hop Off due to limited time. Arriving into Verona on the 1.00pm train, dropping my case at my Airbnb, I started touring about 2.00pm. I was enthralled with this city, it is by far the most picturesque of the all the Italian cities I’ve visited. Like the others, it has a cultural history dating back millenniums. From Castelvecchio who has held kings, Armies and religious orders through to fortified walls and medieval gates still being a part of everyday life. As I walked from the centre at midnight, which was still full of life, I realise Verona is a city worthy of more than a day’s visit.
Porta Bonsari
Castelvecchio
I Portoni della Bra
Montague and Capulet Family Dramas
It would be remiss of me, not to give you my thoughts on Romeo and Juliet, possibly the most well-known love story of all time. I eagerly awaited the opportunity to Hop Off to visit Juliet’s courtyard and balcony and, as many before have done, place my hand on her breast for future luck. I was expecting a throng of people and I wasn’t disappointed. I stood opposite the entry arch, biding my time to enter into what I believed was a sacred romantic corner of the world. What I was confronted with, was a tunnel of love worthy of the crudest graffiti award including overflowing garbage cans, as I emerge into the courtyard and balcony area, I have a sudden stay, thinking the crudity is contained to the tunnel, I pause to take stock of my surroundings but alas, the romantic lovers of days gone by have continued to place their markings on the surrounding walls.
On closer inspection, I note there is also a complete colourful sector dedicated to chewed gum. Is it that they chew the same piece and join their spit on the wall for others to clean at some point? For those that know me, this was my undoing, I am almost phobic to chewing gum (to rid the universe of this disgusting saliva ridden, germ infested product would bring me eternal happiness) and to see this place defiled in this way immediately halted me in my tracks – there was no longer an image of a young couple in love and their desperate romantic battle against family sagas, or a peaceful place to pause and reflect on life’s loves. It took a herculean effort to get my feet moving and force my way back through the vulgar tunnel and to the wonders of an ancient city. As I broke free of the crowds, I noticed my earlier position was outside Shakespeare’s, on closer inspection this was a tacky souvenir shop and any association with Shakespeare would have the wordsmith turning in his grave.
I did not place my hand upon Juliet’s breast, I did not pay to stand upon her balcony – my future luck and love will be safe in my hands – my clean, sterile, empty of spittle, hands!
The tunnel of love in all its glory!
Juliet’s balcony – Shakespeare’s Tryst? I think not.
Look closely at the wall behind
If he buys you something from here – you’re in trouble!
I did manage to come across the Les secrétaires de Juliette which for me, was more interesting. I met with a group of five young ladies who had all volunteered for weeks on end and had come from as far afield as Portgual, Spain, Italy and America. Their task to sit for hours answering a string of love letters written by either hopeless romantics or Hollywood driven maniacs. They were all no older than about 25 and not one was married, so it would be interesting to see who responds to those seeking advice for the over 50s. Maybe I’ll apply although I believe my somewhat sarcastic approach would be met with distain and I could set the world afire with many strong independent women! The responsibility too great!
Train Verona to Salzburg
As I sit on the train, having not long departed Verona for Salzburg, I’m devastated to be leaving Italy, I’m sure a piece of me will always remain in Italy! We are no more than 40 minutes outside of Verona and the train is travelling through a sea of vineyards surrounded by cliffs and mountains, I’m struck by the severity of the cliffs and the mountains of the Dolomites. As we slide through the mountainous landscape and edge our way towards the Austrian border, the more remote the villages, the loss of vineyards and the theatrics of castles on the hills commence.
I’m chatting with my cabin mate, Miss Viktoria, a young woman from Munich who is returning to her home country for a short stay but who has fallen in love with Bologna and a Bolognese man and left her German roots behind. She’s my travel guide on my journey, explaining the mountains, the language and the history of the border towns of Italy and Austria. I was unaware that certain parts of Italy were Austrian and after the second world war the borders were altered. She tells me how her flatmates from this area, will tell you that whilst they are officially in Italy, their hearts remain in Austria – the language spoken in the area is German, the houses representative of German rather than Italian!
Our journey is interrupted by the boarding of a company of Austrian police, refugees have been located and will be forcibly removed. There is a family of five which includes a baby brought into this world in very recent times along with two older brothers, whose eyes are unable to hide the fear they now must face – the parents are young, they’re downcast, they purchased tickets for the train although don’t have the papers to support their journey. There are also three young lads, they look like no more than 14 or 15, travelling on their own. Standing amidst the burley Austrian police, the whites of their eyes glowing in fear, my heart goes out to these people, their plight for a better life has come to an abrupt end. The silence of fellow passengers on the train, alone in their thoughts, makes for a sombre journey. Whilst the whole scenario was quite orderly and without fuss, to actually witness the loss of hope and the realisation that the young couple’s future plans for their children has be terminated, I found confronting and distressing and I will never forget the young boy’s pleading look and the absolute terror, of his unknown future.
Salzburg, Austria
After my train experience, my first night in Salzburg was somewhat subdued, I found my accommodation and visited a nearby restaurant where I enjoyed a bottle of wine and took stock of earlier events and how one’s destiny can be altered at any given point in time.
In complete contrast to my previous day and renewed with energy after conversations with my girls, I was to spend the day visiting a Salt Mine and my long awaited Sound of Music Tour! When Debbie had suggested the Salt Mine, I was somewhat sceptical that I would enjoy this, being underground in caves brought back memories of the Beaconsfield mine disaster. Somewhat anxious, I entered the caves and was astounded at the structures and details. The drill a hole in the ground, several hundred metres below, send crews of men down and then fill part of the hole with water – a totally chilling thought although it works. The set-up of the tour was excellent; I was astounded to sail across an underground lake with a light show. Unfortunately, you are unable to take photos whilst underground, the best I’ve got to show you, is a photo of a postcard and of course, the happy snap taken by the tour that cost me 5 euros!
Sound of Music Tour
Ok, now the whole reason I came to Salzburg – to sing on the hilltops! I boarded my tour bus with nervous energy, hoping my karaoke vocals will withstand the pressure of Maria’s high notes. I find myself seated with a group of young Texas Tech Performing Arts Group who are currently studying in the Czech Republic and who have just performed at the Fringe Festival – Drama majors – seriously? I couldn’t be in better company for the most dramatic tour of my journey! Our guide Albrecht (complete with lederhosen), is possibly in his late 50’s and living the dream – being able to sing and perform Sound of Music every day (in fact, he does two tours a day) and get paid for it – I don’t believe I’ve ever met anyone who enjoys his job more than this fellow! We instantly knew, there was fun to be had.
As we meandered through the streets of Salzburg, we were provided with Albrecht’s own personal satirical view of the city. There are too many sites from the movie to mention in this mere blog. The front of this house, the back of that, this row of trees, that driveway – at each stop you recall the scene from the movie and see yourself stepping through the looking glass and taking your place as Gretel or Leisel or Maria, all the while learning additional snippets of information from our illustrious guide. It was time to leave the city behind and head into the mountains – I was not the only one on that tour, whose heart was aflutter with the anticipation of running through those hills. We were heading to Mondsee, which possesses the church that Maria and the Captain were married in. It’s an hour’s drive through the mountains, what else to do but sing! For a split second, my vocal chords froze, I was struck with fear as my seat companion tells me that she sings a capella in her local church! I let her know that I’m a karaoke queen and profusely apologise in advance – I’m not being put off by someone who can actually hold a tune!
Upon arrival into Mondsee, we encounter a Marching Band Competition, in excess of 20 groups, all dressed in traditional Austrian Tracht (attire) and filling the cobblestoned ways with music. The pathways were lined with dirndls and lederhosens, we were instantly immersed in Austrian culture and the whole village was alive with festivities. After partaking in famous apple strudel we returned to the city to take in the beautiful ‘Do Re Mi’ gardens of Mirabell Palace. Remembering I’m with a group of performing arts students, we had to re-enact the famous hopping step scene, so we took over the steps and thrilled a touristic audience with scenes from their favourite movie!
To watch the following videos, click on the links below each photo!
With our Sound of Music tour now over, Albrecht has given us his last point of interest, directions to the local beer hall. With music and hilarity all around us, we head off for the beer hall – you never know, hopefully there may be an Oompah band! After realising there is one type of beer and the smallest, a ½ litre mug – it was time to indulge in beer drinking! To my fellow extended Von Trapp family singers – Katie, Abby, Lauren, Hannah and Zach – my Sound of Music tour was made all the more enjoyable with you as my backing group! If some day you venture Downunder, I’ll be sure to show you just how a singing tour is done Australian style with my backyard Karaoke!
The following day, I visited the Christmas Museum, the Hohensalzburg Fortress, a river cruise and Hellbrunn Palace (17th century Renaissance Palace) which boasts amazing water features still powered as they were 300 years ago!
After being in Levanto for nearly three weeks, I decided it’s time to venture further afield, to do this I went off to hire a car. Unfortunately, the day in question was the Italian Republic Day and therefore a public holiday. No problem, I was however able to get myself a scooter!
I’ve scooted around Krabi (Thailand) on a scooter, I was full of confidence, how hard could it be? The first point of difference is that they drive on the left, oh and there’s a lot more vehicles in La Spezia than in Krabi – like highways and traffic lights and dual lanes and …
It took me an hour to get out of La Spezia for two reasons, I hadn’t mastered turning corners – I seem to only be able to turn right and I couldn’t hear my GPS on my phone in my pocket to in fact find my way out of the City. I eventually found myself in a car park, practiced a few corners here and there and got my earplug under the helmet – I was ready to embark, it was now or never!
Before I could turn on to the back roads to make my way back to the Cinque Terre, I had to get on to a highway for about 5km. I hadn’t thought about the bloody tunnels – how overwhelming when you find yourself on a scooter, in a tunnel with cars whizzing past you because you’re not going fast enough! Tunnels are dark and of course I’ve worn my sunglasses to complete the “I’m so cool riding a scooter” look that I struggled into the darkness hoping that there is in fact a light at the end of this tunnel! By the end of the 36km journey – well my journey was more like a 64km journey due to all the right hand turns – I was no longer daunted by the upcoming tunnels, which range from 50m to over 2500m it’s quite amazing to weave your way through a mountain after mountain.
As I meandered along those country back roads in the Italian Riviera I was struck by the beauty of this amazing country – lush green hills, fast flowing creeks, it reminded me of New Zealand although as you turn the next bend, you happen upon a medieval village or a church that appears more archaic that the previous. There is a constant display of ruins in fields and by the side of the road, some being consumed by nature others looking like they’ve recently been felled.
There is an abundance of space within those mountains, although village life is contained within a few blocks. They tend to live on top of each other – these quaint small villages made up of what appears to be colourful lego built homes, each sharing a neighbouring wall. I’m not sure of the Italian history, although it appears that each village would have been a family’s property, as each member of the family expanded, they added another living area. The saying, “it takes a village”, I see clearly what is meant in these hills. I could see the Steer, Lewis, O’Leary, Hutchison families living in our own village although I fear instead of a church, it would have been a Taverna!
My ride!
Oh so bloody cool!
An amazing view back to Levanto
Again Levanto from the mountain
Look closely, there is in fact a house!
Ruins still part of everyday life
Deserted by the side of the railway line
Lucca
I now had my power wheels and my first venture, led me to Lucca, the first of my Tuscan towns. Lucca’s old town is surrounded by extremely well preserved Renaissance walls from 16th/17th century. To be honest, I wasn’t keen on Lucca, yes it’s old and they have many churches, as do other cities – nothing stood out for me here. I found the most interesting sites in Lucca were the assortment of doors on the various buildings. Every window was barred, is this an indication of a high crime rate within the region (it would be the first I’ve encountered) or was the placed so steeped in history that the locals were still living in fear of the savages from days gone by.
The highlight of my day in Lucca, was the Café where I paused for afternoon tea, there was an array of amazing bite sized pastries just waiting to poach away my WW points for the day!
Another Levanto Production
During my first week in Levanto I happened across a small theatre production in the Piazza Cavour (the town square) whereby scenes from Macbeth, Romeo & Juliet and Hamlet were being performed by the local thespians. I was again enthralled this week to come across a production of Grease being performed by the local children’s dance school. As possibly the only native speaking English person present and knowing all the words, actions and dances, I could in fact have played the lead, if only given the opportunity!
Whilst both productions had charm and were in deed entertaining, I couldn’t help but be aware of the opportunities provided to those of us who live in cities and are afforded the masterminds of great teachers, exceptional facilities and an abundance of individual talents. These performances were somewhat crude, although I’m no theatre critic and I don’t believe there will be any Tony’s awarded, however the audience was full of praise and the Piazza was alive with accomplishment and gratitude for entertainment on a spring evening, in a picturesque village, on the Ligurian coast!
Each evening ended with the calls of ‘Bravo, Bravo’ from the captivated crowds. It should be noted that the dance school was completely female characters, is it that the Italian boys cannot dance or are they simply too mucho for such frivolity!
Macbeth
Tell me more, tell me more …
Angelo’s Boat Tours
Whilst enjoying my daily aperitifs and watching the boats frolic through the deep blue-green waters, I longed for such a day. My sleuth enquiries led me to Angelo’s Boat Tours, a local who had captured himself a San Franciscan gal and together they had developed a boat tour that involved, food, wine, swimming and a guide to Cinque Terre cliffs from the water.
My companions for the day are a young couple from Chicago, sisters from Australia travelling with elderly parents and a group of four young American lads taking leave after graduation and before embarking on their careers. Said lads arrived with an additional four bottles of Prosecco to share with their fellow sailors. I instantly knew there was a day to be had!
We motored along, hugging the cliff face as Alessandro (local guide from Levanto) told us of the history of the villages and the subsequent decline of traditional trades due to the almighty tourist dollar. Alessandro explained in years gone by, the cliffs had been crumbling and with the planting of the vineyards and crops, it has assisted in holding the earth and rock together sustaining the cliffs for future, however as more and more farmers leave their fields to open yet another Italian restaurant, the cliffs are now returning to their crumbling state. The local community are now struggling to maintain the devastation, in particular the walkways, which is a major drawcard for the villages. It seems to be a vicious cycle and without some input from UNESCO, the Cinque Terre will no longer be a major drawcard for hiking tourists and that almighty dollar that they fight for, will be no more.
Upon arriving into Vernazza, we pause to take lunch, seated amongst the throng of fellow tourists we are treated to a feast which is made famous by the Italians. With seafood aplenty along with pasta and yet I dare to say, more wine. We gorged until we could eat no more! We returned to the boat ready for siestas on the deck. It was not long and the anchor was released to allow our senses to be awoken in the clear cool deep sea waters!
With our bodies alive and refreshed, we headed for Monterroso Al Mare somewhat more subdued than at the point of departure. It was a day filled with laughter and chatter and at times, disclosure of personal stories to strangers from afar. Another day that will undoubtedly be a highlight of this intrepid journey.
My week rounds off with a shopping trip to the fashion outlet stores in Brugnato, located approximately 10km inland from Levanto. I parked on the outskirts of Brugnato and wandered through the medieval laneways of the village. In doing this I came upon a photographic display of a Festival that was held in the village earlier in the year. Unfortunately I don’t know more than that but as you will see from the photos, it appears the laneways are decorated with designs and tributes which are quite obviously Christian based, it may be a celebration of the patron saint of that region. Once I exited the village I walked through the suburban streets making my way towards the shopping outlet stores. After being surrounded by homes from throughout the centuries, I was astounded to see newer quite significantly larger homes and with an abundance of living space and garden areas. I’m pleased to see this other side of life, it’s where if I lived in this area, I’m sure I would be.
The outlet shopping mall turned out to be quite tame when compared to Harbour Town on Australia’s Gold Coast. All the shoppers could have met in the central piazza and shared a pizza, there were so few of us! I’m also not sure that the Italians have mastered the ‘outlet’ shopping experience – prices were exorbitant!
Deserted outlet shopping mall
Brugnato Cathedral
Medieval walkways
Gives you an idea of what they’re doing
One of the finished products
Shows it’s obviously a procession of sorts
Next, my adventures in Tuscany, leaving Levanto and my visit with the Montague and Capulet families!
The time is definitely flying by too fast – I can’t believe already another week has gone by. What have I been doing this week? Sitting in cafes, enjoying a coffee or a carafe of wine – lots of nothing I think but here’s a few highlights.
Reading, reading and reading!
As most you know, books, reading, literature is my passion. I never have enough time to read, it’s my mission on this holiday to read as many books as I can – I’m currently reading Book #14! I think I might start a separate tab for books and write a summary for them. Keep a look out for this addition to the Blog. I’ll just need to get Manon to show me how to do this!
I actually brought with me three actual books, I started one the other day although I’ve had to abandon it as the print is too small – it seems I need to locate a magnifying glass to read those. Not a bloody word from any of you!
Not just a Cooking Class…
On many of my holidays, I’ve undertaken cooking classes, I always think I should come away with a little bit more knowledge of the food of not only that Country but the local area I’ve decided to stay in.
I found via TripAdvisor a restaurant called L’Articiocca that hold cooking classes in the Ligurian (the region) cuisine. I emailed and had a reply back within a couple of hours. There is a minimum of two people, I explained I was on my own and he mentioned that the next day there is a class that I could join. Voila! I was off to my cooking class the next day.
So the plan was to make a three course meal, which consisted of pasta (croxetti, tortelloni and fettuccine), sauces for all three pastas as well as making traditional pesto and ricotta cheese (yes, cheese from scratch) with a lemon curd sauce for dessert. I was somewhat doubtful of my skills in the kitchen and my cooking companions were a young couple from Canada with their 2-year-old Nash and 6-month old Fox. Hey if the 2-year-old can cook pasta, I can!
Our chef extraordinaire – Ermanno was accompanied by the lovely Miss Clara – we started with making up the pastry for the two different types of pasta – one that is deep fried (yes not good for those of us counting points) and the other, being typical pastas. Ermanno is quick to let us know where the best place (locally) to grow Basil, this is what sets the Liguria pesto apart from everyone else. I always thought pesto has cashews – something we never eat at home due to Dana’s allergies – however “real” pesto is made with pine nuts! Who knew? I need to dig out my mortar and pestle and stop using it as a door stop – there’s pesto to be made.
Action shot!
Ground Basil
Pesto!
Let the gluten reconnect!
Deep Fried Pasta??
Making Croxetti
We spent three wonderful hours filling our senses with a variety of aromas, feeling the dough to see how it rebounds under our touch and of course, how it looks. The visual is almost as important as the taste! I just needed to get to the tasting part. At one point there was a lull in our class whilst we waited for the gluten in the pasta dough to do its thing! Something had separated and we were waiting for it to combine again – maybe – I kind of lost this bit. I was too busy watching Clara bring together, what is without a doubt, the best Aperol Spritzer I’ve had (and I’ve had few)!
We then proceeded to make fresh ricotta cheese – yes I’m now a Casaro – Fromager – Cheesemaker! It was so easy and so much better than any I’ve tasted before. Is it because I’ve made it with my own hands or because it is so fresh – do we lose all the flavour one it’s packaged and processed and sent to market? Another on my ‘To Do’ list or ‘To Do’ again…
Once the pasta was made, we then turned our culinary skills to the sauces – so simple, took literally minutes to prepare – what do we always seem to make things so complicated. I can’t wait to prepare my feast for my family, although they may all need to make their own pasta otherwise it will take me forever! Liguria is renowned for its lemons, they reap a quarter of cup of juice from just one lemon!
Clara with Aperol Spritz
Tomato, olive and white wine sauce
Adding the vino!
Finally, our meals are prepared, accompanied by an aromatic local Vermentino (of course, the hint of citrus stands out), we take our places to enjoy the fruits of our labour. There is nothing more fulfilling then sitting down enjoying great food, great wine with amazing individuals!
The memory of this Ligurian cooking class will remain with me for years to come!
Tortelloni
Ready to serve
The Feast awaits
Leaning Tower of Pisa
I ventured for a day out in Pisa, of course to visit the Tower. As I headed off on my walking endeavour after arriving at the Pisa Centrale Stazione, I found so much more than just a Leaning Tower. My travels through the City led me to happen across an art show displaying works of Ugo Nespolo – whilst I’m no art critic, I’m not sure what I was more impressed with the venue for the showing – Chiesa Di Santa Maria Della Spina, erected in the mid 1200s and boasts architecture from the Italian Gothic style or in fact the artwork itself.
The next intriguing structure is the fortified wall that encompasses the City holding it within in falling down clutches. This wall dates back to circa 1165. I continually come across these structures and find it unfathomable that they’ve withstood the test of time as well as they have. They are formidable!
From any point in the City, you just need to follow the crowd to make your way to Pisa’s foremost attractions – The Leaning Tower of Pisa, Piazza dei Miracoli (formally known as Piazza del Duomo) and the Pisa Baptistry. First thoughts upon seeing this Tower is of course, how on earth is it standing – why doesn’t it fall? How has it not already fallen? It’s quite a lean – if I remember correctly it’s something like a 5m difference? Is that right? Not sure what the degree of lean would be. Let me assure you after climbing over 250 odd steps to the top, you can certainly feel the lean, it’s quite off putting, I needed to hang on to the sides as I made my way up and down, it’s quite daunting and then when you get to the top, the sensation that you’re falling is quite real. I was not on my own, holding on, as we tentatively made our way around the circumference of the turret.
The other buildings are extraordinaire in their own way – the Baptistry would certainly give Saint Peter’s Basilica a run for its money – John the Baptist, of course, has equal relevance in the Christian history books and as such, the Baptistry is impressive and steeped in history.
La Spezia with David Bowie
I had decided that at some point during my month in Levanto that I would hire a car to see further afield. To do this I must venture into La Spezia, I spent four hours wondering through this Italian city which, to be honest, is quite unremarkable. As a gateway to the Cinque Terre it’s almost a forgotten city, there is a large harbour where cruise ships dock, a relatively large train station and all of the major hire car company are located within La Spezia. Whilst the hubs are a hype of activity of tourists coming and going to get to the Cinque Terre, it doesn’t appear that their tourist dollar makes it into the local shops or restaurants. Of course, there is a spin off although it’s a mere pittance when compared to the amount that is spewed into the 5 small villages that rest on the sides of hills. When the cruise ships dock and at the peak of the season, there can be up to 20,000 visitors per day to this region. I’m extremely pleased I’ve come off-peak!
I failed in my attempt to secure a hire car on this particular day, it was the Italian Republic Day and as such a public holiday. I decided to enjoy a relaxing lunch and make my return, however I happened upon Fondazione Carispezia which currently houses a display of the photographic work of Masayoshi Sukita – you may not know his name (I didn’t) although I recognised his photos of the legend David Bowie. I couldn’t believe in this small side street, in this forgotten Italian City, I was fortunate enough to come across such a viewing with gratuitous entry. If they were not original prints, they were of course, limited additions. As a long standing fan of Bowie, who was extremely saddened by his recent death, I was ecstatic to be able to see this show. I know this will remain a highlight of my journey.
And last but not least
I appear to have a couple of new friends in Casella – I don’t believe I need to say more – a photo is worth a thousand words! Don’t expect to see either of them in future posts.
I’ve spent this week, really trying to get a feel for the local area. As I sit here typing this, I can hear the coaches winding their way up and down the narrow mountain roads and blowing their horn around the blind corners. With each toot of the horn, another dog joins in to the melody of the evening barking session.
As I head off on my descent to the village of Levanto, I’m reminded that this is a major tourism area that fills by day with visitors from Genoa, Milan and Rome as well as the cruise ship terminals from La Spezia. Thankfully, it’s not peak season as yet so the madness has not quite hit. The locals tell me August is their busiest period with some days having as many of 20,000 visitors to the area. It’s a love/hate relationship – business is good although there is a desecration of their quiet village life.
Stairway out of Village
Walking through the village under arch towards church
My wonderful host, Claudia, had been to the local Information office and collected a variety of brochures to guide me around Levanto and neighbouring villages. There are walks which weave you through Levanto town and discover sights which make this town more interesting as you turn each corner.
I had no idea that one small village could hold within its boundaries so many different relics from centuries past. To see medieval buildings and landmarks from the 11th century being used in everyday life is remarkable. The 12th century clock tower still chiming through the hours – how is this even possible?
Loggia c.1300s for storing merchandise which came off the ships.
Medieval transport workers accommodation
The local castle, they believe c. 1165 although others believe the 16th century.
Forgotten tunnel to nowhere!
Fortified Wall with a clock tower – clock still working for the last 800 years – What the???
This region wouldn’t be Italian, without the abundance of churches, each with their own distinctive style and history. From pirates to Saints, each holds their revered position within the region. My personal favourites – Oratoria Mortis et Orationis – my understanding is Brotherhood of Death and Prayer – widely known as the Pirate Church in Monterosso Al Mare and Sant’Andrea’s (c.1222) in Levanto. The ringing of the church bells is endless, I was awake about 3.00am a couple of nights ago and still heard the bells chiming the time. One evening at 9.30pm, the bells rang for 30 minutes, I’m not sure if this was to celebrate something special, perhaps a wedding or a funeral or maybe the anniversary of the patron saint of that particular church.
Sant’Andrea
Inside Sant’Andrea
Chapel in Riomaggiore
Oratorio Mortis et Orationis, Monterosso al Mare
Whilst talking pirates, it would be remiss of me not to mention my ‘altercation on the high seas’ – well it sounds so ! Taking the ferry from Levanto to Riomaggiore I came across a real live pirate!
I have no words…
All aspects of modern life do not appear to have made its way to the Liguria region, my studio apartment does not have telephone or internet, to gain access to these modern technologies, I must stand in the bus stop at the front of the village (to the great amusment of village-goers) or walk 3km into town. The local bus only runs up the hill despite there being a timetable and bus stops running down – I was made aware of this fact by the upwards bus yelling at me, that “no autobus giu”(no bus down). The local council has been laying a new footpath and as such there has been one lane closed. Now in Australia this would entail bright lights, trucks, cones, reduction in speed and several traffic regulation officers (stop and go men), well things here a little more laid back. A single fellow standing on the sidewalk with a slightly oversized ping pong bat – one side red, one side green. It’s all really quite simple and yet it works.
Each morning a major road is closed for the daily market to take place where you can purchase everything from clothing, pots and pans and makeup to televisions, radios and iPhone accessories. Many businesses close between 1.30pm and 3.00pm for lunch and a lull falls over the village with many restaurants and bars not opening until 7.00pm although kitchens still open at midnight. I’m slowing starting to realise that dinner is served about 10.00pm not at 6.00pm.
The locals seem to be getting used to me, a young girl walks her new pup every afternoon and if my door is open, it’s a stop along to way for the pup to discover something new. It gives me a chance to interact with my neighbours. I’m now regularly met with a welcome of ‘ciao buongiorno (good morning) or buonasera (good evening)’. If I’m heading out at the same time, I’ve been offered rides to Levanto, which I’ve happily accepted another opportunity to interact with the locals – they’re all intrigued that I would want to spend time in Casella.
Due to the uphill climb on the way home (after a couple of finest local vinos) I’m on a first name basis with the local taxi drivers – Mykos and Eduardo. I asked if they’ve ever been to Australia – Mykos tells me it would take 10 years of work to afford to travel so far. From what I have learnt, the Ligurians go about their daily business (albeit at a slow pace) for minimal fiscal return. Their life is relaxed as are their attitudes which makes this region of Italy even more of a welcome relief from the fast paced, action filled lifestyle on the Gold Coast.
It’s one week since I arrived in Levanto, to some extent I’ve worked out the lay of the land although the local bus schedule still has me dazed and confused. My little studio apartment is in fact located in Casella near to Montale – you need the additional geographical location, when I relay to my new found Italian friends where I’m staying, it’s always “Ah, Ca-Zella near to Montale”. Casella is located nearly 3km from the centre of Levanto, I would have referred to it as being slightly uphill although having now walked that ‘slight’ hill several times – I feel like I’m staying at the top of Kilimanjaro, well not quite but after a long days outing, the walk home is challenging!
At the start!
Walking the hill to Casella
Nearly at the bottom
Casella is really just a set of apartment blocks all melded together – of course there is a church, well the façade of one at least. It was an old Olive Oil Mill some years ago, that has been added to, refurbished and sold off. I’m the freak in the Village, not because I’m a foreigner because I leave my front door open and say “Ciao” to my neighbours as they go about their daily routines. They scurry through the walkways and enter in haste, sealing themselves within their tomblike homes. Windows and doors are always closed, the activities within their homes reserved only for the privileged inside.
My lounge window on the right
View towards my front door
However, if neighbours cross paths, there is joviality and chatter – there is no such thing as a quiet Italian, they would definitely give the Lewis/Steer clan a run for our money. I understand nothing of what is said, although each encounter brings a smile to my face – they’re welcoming, cheerful and friendly although it seems at first they’re arguing bitterly until each steps away with a smile and a “Ciao, Ciao, Ciao”. It may well be the locked doors and windows are to ensure some peace and quiet or possibly to keep the crazy foreigner out!
The biggest challenge I’ve faced so far living in this small village environment, is the garbage system – your trash is to be sorted a. Landfill, b. Paper, c. recyclable plastics, d. organic waste and e. glass – garbage is collected every day although there is a roster of what rubbish goes out, on what day. There is an extensive chart located on the kitchen wall and at present I have five bin/bags on the go. It’s smart, it’s makes you think about recycling with every piece of rubbish you discard.
To describe the Italian lifestyle as laidback is an understatement – we always refer to the Australian way of life as being laidback although I’m fairly certain the Italian’s have the title secured. Each day I pass a local coffee shop, a line of chairs is placed along one wall and I am becoming familiar with the regular occupants. Day in and day out, elderly gentleman passing the time away, gathering to solve the day’s dilemma and to offer advice, whether coveted or not! This has become my regular for morning coffee – it’s well located to watch the daily arrivals from the Stazione.
Photo of old men in chairs to come…. I’m scared if they see me take a photo they’ll give me more advice!
When I last visited the Cinque Terre region in 2011, I struggled to walk the track between Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare – a challenging walk but made all the more difficult due to the excess weight I was carrying. When I made the decision to take this trip, I set myself a goal to lose weight so I could enjoy the walks and get the most of being in this amazing region of Italy. Two days ago, I walked from Levanto to Monterosso, nearly 12km over the top of a mountain. It’s been some time since I’ve had a more personal satisfying fist pumping moment as I reached the peak. The walk was made more enjoyable through today’s technology, for nearly 30 minutes whilst scaling the mountain through unknown territory, I was video-chatting with Dana who was able to not only experience the walk with me but also ensured that in the event my heart stopped or I collapsed on the path, I would avoid being tomorrow’s headline!
On the trail
View from the top
Beautiful!
Yesterday I set off to walk from Riomaggiore to Manarola and then on to Corniglia along the ocean walkways. Taking the boat trip from Levanto and being able to see the region from the water, takes your breath away. Each village is secluded between ruggered mountains scattered with terraced farmlands, farmers which must be half mountain goat to be able to tend their crops. After spending several hours of discovery in Riomaggiore I set out on my next walk. The easy strolling track located high above the crash of the wave line along ‘Vie del amore’ was closed due to landslides. Not to be deterred, I moved on to Manarola by train with the intention of walking Manarola to Corniglia but alas another track closed due to damage. I was under prepared to take on the upper tracks, wrong clothes and shoes, although I’ll come back next week better prepared to tackle these treks.
Instead I spent the day meandering through the villages taking time to sit and watch the world go by, taking in the sights and sounds of the bustling crowds as each boat and train arrived spewing forth more tourists. Whilst the picturesque villages are what postcards are made for, I can’t help feeling somewhat dismayed at seeing the cheap tacky souvenir shops in each of the village centres – I know the locals rely on tourism however the quaint small village life has long departed these shores and they’re now bursting at the seams for the tourist dollar! I may forage inland to discover a different Italy.
A note to the Cinque Terre Tourism, many of the visitors to this area are elderly and the walks along the seaway from Riomaggiore to Corniglia via Manarola are possible the only walks many can do. It’s disappointing these tracks are not yet open, I recall when I visited in 2011, these were also the same tracks not open.
The train journey from Rome to Levanto was uneventful – Straight through, on time. I was thrilled upon arrival I was met by my host, Claudia! Claudia lives in Bologna and her place in Casella is a holiday home that she has listed through AirBnB. The home is part of a renovated olive oil mill, very rustic and still maintains some of the old Mill.
The village of Casella is about 3km inland from Levanto, slightly rural and away from the tourist spots! There’s a local bus although only travels about 3 or 4 times a day. Walking to Levanto takes about 45 minutes slight downhill all the way and is keeping the pasta off my hips! Today I will venture back up the hill – will be interesting to see if I make it.
I’m here for a month, so taking my time getting to know the small town, it seems nothing really happens until about 9.30am and then of course there is siesta from 2.00pm to 4.30pm after which is aperitif time! I’ll stay in the village today and have aperitif’s overlooking the Italian Riviera. The last bus back is at 6.00pm otherwise I walk!
I’ve actively encouraged my family and friends to ask me questions about my travel, as I go. Some questions have come through from my niece – Finnella.
Q. Do you plan on singing karaoke in a foreign language?
Of course, what’s a holiday with a good Karaoke session – ideally I would have liked to try Opera in Rome however I may be better suited to a beer hall in Germany!
Q. If so, how will you film it for us to watch?
Easy one Finn, Debbie bought me a ‘selfie stick’! Will definitely be posted on the Blog!
Q. Would you even want us to watch?
Absolutely, you’ll miss my dulcet tones whilst I’m gone!
Q. What foreign language would you like to sing karaoke in?
I think it would be interesting in Danish although I think I’m going to have to stick with English.
Q. How do you feel about attempting to find the Game of Thrones set/actors?
Hmmm – not really on my list of things to do? A quick google search tells me they film in Croatia, Iceland, Morocco and Northern Ireland – you’re best chance is when I get to Northern Ireland although if Jon Snow’s not around – I won’t bother!
Q. Or possibly the actors from Harry Potter?
Harry who?
Q. If you get close enough, so you plan on re-enacting the Sound of Music?
I am specifically going to Salzburg to do just that! Maybe I’ll get my karaoke moment as well.
Q. Are you going to attempt to find ABBA?
You mean stalk them? Seek out Agnetha’s hidden island home? No, if I do make it to Stockholm, I will definitely visit the ABBA museum and there must be ABBA karaoke somewhere, surely!
Q. What are three books you’re intending to read on your holiday, and why?
Just three? Margaret Atwood’s “Handmaid’s Tale“(a gift from a friend); David Baldacci’s “The Last Mile” (one of my favourite authors – I anxiously await his releases); Jojo Moyes “Me Before You” and “After You” (Movie coming out soon – I saw the trailer recently and I’m a sucker for a love story – although I like to read the book before the movies)! The problem is, I’m Day 6 into my holiday and have already read four books – loving this although I fear it’s going to cost me a fortune!
Q. Have you learnt the word for champagne in several languages yet?
“Champagne” is universal I don’t need to learn it any other way.
Q. Would you rather sit next to an old person or a crying baby on a plane?
Good question – I really don’t mind provided I have a window seat.
Q. Apart from things such as a passport and money, what can you not travel without?
Definitely my e-reader.
Q. Are you going to miss Bella or Simba more?
Ummmm – tough choice, I love them both the same – oh, is that the kids?
Q. Some of the other questions are all about inspiration or motivation, so why do you think we are asking you these questions?
To make me think and to inspire and motivate me and give me something else to do other than read!
Thanks to my Rome hosts, Vanessa and Riccardo, I knew exactly how to get into the City and how to find their place, which is to be home for the next four days. The directions were perfect! I took my time, had an espresso at the airport waiting for the transit bus, made my way around Termini (Central Station) and picked up my 72 hour Rome Transport pass (€18) while I was there. Along the way, we passed some typical Rome sights!
Vanessa and Riccardo’s home in the San Giovanni neighbourhood was to be my first AirBnB experience – I was slightly hesitant – foreign country, someone’s home, absolutely no idea where I’m going. I didn’t need to be concerned – if this is what AirBnB is all about – I’m sold! The couple have perfected modern chic. On my first morning – I’m met with a continental breakfast which includes home baked goods to die for – ‘Frolle di Ricotta’! They’ve invited me for dinner this evening, I’m so looking for to joining them.
Breakfast is served
Frolle di Ricotta
Room with a view
If ever in Rome – I would highly recommend Vanessa and Riccardo’s home – they have two rooms available! Check them out here – https://www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/7566600.
I spent the first afternoon wandering aimlessly to get my bearings – every corner I turned had another ancient site to see. I found myself at the Spanish Steps which turns out are really French – a trivia fact I was unaware of! With google maps available these days, I encourage you to just walk – let yourself get lost as you come across hidden gems and places so weird – a shopping centre decorated in snails? Not sure what’s going on here but I may venture back for a better look!
I had organised a walking tour of Ancient Rome with ‘Enjoy Rome’ tours – what a great way to see this crumbling, renovated, ancient, modern city. There were 10 of us with our wonderful guide – Barbara, a young Italian women whose passion for her city and country shone through as she walked us through the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon and ending the 3 hour tour at Piazza Navona! The weather was not kind to us, raining and cold although the day was filled with information, fun and meeting other travellers. Barbara, Kerry and Stuart (UK) and myself enjoyed a vino or two with a pasta to cap off a great day out!
Heading off to the Vatican although I’m told about an Angels and Demons tour – I might be tempted to relive Dan Brown!
My eldest daughter, Manon, believes I have it in me to write a novel about my journey which will incorporate my journey through life. What made me the person I am now, that allows me to pick up and head off for four months overseas on my own. Manon has challenged me and will continue to push me to reveal all.
I’m not sure there’s that much to reveal however, she’ll keep prodding and we’ll see where this goes. I encourage anyone reading this blog to ask me questions. What do you want to know about me, about a place I visit – open book, let’s see what is revealed.
Manon’s Questions:
Q. 5 words to describe your identity now ….
Mother, Event Manager, 52yo, Matriarch (although my mother may argue this point), Carer
I am the leader of the pack of a group of extremely independent women – my mother, two sisters, two daughters and niece who all strive to break down barriers and be dominant leaders.
Q. Why did you decide to pack up your life and head to Europe for four months, leaving behind your two children, family, friends, jobs etc?
It’s fairly simple – the opportunity presented itself, stars aligned, a cliché I know, however with Dana finishing high school at the end of 2015, my long service leave was due, my divorce is finalised, it was time to be me. It was time to step back, reflect on my life, the path that I’ve followed to get to this point. I need to find me again, see who I actually am now, when I look at my identity – I love who I am, I’m first and foremost a mother – this will never change!
Q. Why are you able to go?
I believe I have provided a great base for my girls to follow in my footsteps of being confident, independent women. I gave up my career as a paralegal and my life in Australia to follow Godfrey to Saudi Arabia. After 12 years in the Royal Australian Air Force, Godfrey joined British Aerospace based in Dhahran. Without a doubt, the biggest decision of my life was to join him.
Once we started a family, my primary focus was and still is my two girls – whilst I have always continued to work, the children were always my priority. Upon returning to Australia, I delved into other opportunities, it was difficult to maintain businesses with two children and Godfrey absent with work, so the businesses were closed down. I was extremely fortunate that I was offered employment at Somerset College, this way I could work and be around to support the girls at school and be a hands on parent.
I have given both girls a great grounding to launch their careers and now that the day to day care of them has passed, I’m now able to take some (well-deserved) me time.
Q. Are your daughters ok for you to leave?
I was very indecisive to start with – I wasn’t sure how my planned trip would be received. Once I had floated the idea and both girls wished me well (and subsequently contributed to my airfare) I knew all would be well. I had strived all my life to ensure I raised confident, capable women. I knew I had done that and done it well.
Q. Why are you ok to leave your daughters?
I guess the answer is the same – I have confidence in the girls’ abilities and have empowered them to stand on their own two feet. I’m sure they we will miss me although, it’s also another step in the learning curve for them. This will be the longest time I’ve ever been away from Dana and I know that both of them, will look out for each other. I also know that I have an amazing support network with my family. At the end of the day, I’m literally a flight away. I have purchased a ticket that I can change at the drop of a hat and can be home within 24 hours if need be!
Q. Have you thought about how we – Manon , Dana and Godma (my youngest sister) will deal with problems while you’re gone?
I love this question, I love that they include Allison into the mix. I’m certain with me out of the picture and not so ‘on call’, each of you will take a step back, assess the situation you may find yourself in and work through any difficulties yourselves. Ultimately I’m still only a call or email away. I fear I will have constant contact!
I wanted to have a bit of mother/daughter time before departure! High Tea at the Marriott Surfers Paradise.
I’ve just spent an amazing few hours with my two daughters, Manon and Dana, a memory that will last a lifetime! We laughed, we talked, we ate and we laughed some more!
A Stepping Stone 