Visiting the Cities…

As we head off towards the city of Calgary, we realise very quickly that it’s not the cities we want to spend time in. Of course, we want to tick the box and say we’ve seen it but countryside Canada certainly pull you back into the wild.

Calgary is the third largest city in Canada with a population of around 1.6m, comparing to an Australian city, smaller than Brisbane which boasts 2.5m in 2024.

We do a very quick drive through and continue towards Edmonton, the next stop on our journey. I’ve heard about the West Edmonton Mall, the shopping centre with a water park – it’s always held an interest and to be sure, this shopping mall, does not disappoint.

Edmonton and the surrounds are blue collar areas, hardworking people and I suspect, a substantial fly in/fly out population as well. After a long day on the road, we arrived to find our accommodation literally across the road from the mall. Shops are open until 9pm!

The shopping centre is much like any other centre although with an indoor water park, indoor theme park (think rollercoasters), indoor ice skating rink, indoor marine park (thinks seals) and so much more.

We arrived in Edmonton on the day the Edmonton Oilers were in the playoffs – now what playoffs, I’m unsure although there was great excitement, everyone was wearing the team colours and there was a lot of celebrating!

Edmonton was also a teaching experience for Cecilia and myself in how to order meals! You would think we would know, however when ordering a meal that we were going to share, we in fact ordered double. Cecilia ordered the Quesabirria, beef we thought, which in fairness it was. It came with broth, after both Cecilia and I had tasted the broth (thinking it was soup) and declared it was ‘not our thing’ we decided to google what a birria taco actually was, turns out we had been sipping the broth that we were supposed to be dipping our previously fried taco into! One can only imagine what the staff were thinking!

We owe Edmonton an apology, I don’t believe we gave it our best shot, for two days we did nothing but wander throughout a shopping centre! When departing, one thing we noticed not only here but in other areas of Canada, was the amount of caravans, RVs and the like. There were literally hundreds of storage facilities, that housed thousands of the campers in every size and shape. If you have spare land, you rent it out to someone to park their RV. There were so many mobile homes on the road with us, we lost count.

Our next stop was a small town Hinton, our investigating had discovered they had a Beaver Boardwalk, we were really not sure what to expect but we ended up with one of the most amazing wildlife experiences of the trip thus far.

Standing in 6°c rainy weather for over an hour, just watching a beaver do his thing! We thought we were lucky when we first spotted them swimming, we then came across a beaver who had work on his agenda! He had a hole a to fill…

Amazing interaction with wildlife doing his thang…

Our next destination was a stopover at Prince George, this little town was surprising, you could immediately see that this was a lower socio-economic region and unfortunately, we noticed an increase in homelessness. We ventured to town for dinner on a lazy Sunday evening and I think we shared the best Indian meal I’ve ever had and it’s one of my favourite meals – The Tasty Bite!

We’ve been on the road for some time, we’ve planned a few days out and have booked a log cabin by Big Lake, there’s a fire station, a village shop, a community centre and a school! It’s cold and wet, our accommodation is heated and possesses a 1000 piece puzzle of an elephant, if you know my friend Cecilia, she is obsessed with elephants, so the puzzle begins.

For four days, we slept, we puzzled, we cooked and relaxed all whilst overlooking a serene lake!

After 4 days of R&R we were ready to continue our tour, Whistler was our next stop! We took the road less travelled and traversed mountains and villages along the way. A stop at the local art studio in Clinton introduced us to local artist – Linda Madden who carves moose antlers. These pieces are truly magnificent. I definitely would have had one (and still might), I’m just not sure whether I can get it back into Australia!

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The drive from Big Lake to Whistler provided so many changing landscapes it was hard to keep up. We passed by a sulphur lake where the colour of the lake was as yellow as ‘sulphur’ surprisingly…

We traversed countryside from rich pine forests to the barren desert of Lillooet, we were shocked by the change in such a short drive. We had left 3°c weather in Big Lake and had a hit a high of 31°c in Lillooet! As we neared the town we noticed another flowing river coming towards us – how could that be?

The Fraser River is the largest salmon spawning river in the world – I wish I had known this travelling through…

As we near to Whistler, the traffic mounts and the isolation of the villages fades. I visited Whistler in May of 2018 when Manon was living in Vancouver. A tourist town that is vibrate from sun-up to well past sun- down. A beautiful village that caters for all seasons, although it doesn’t hold the charm of those isolated towns. We’re astounded at the number of bikes that overtaken the town and the ski slopes for the summer. I can only imagine there’s a rivalry between the two. We’ve hit on the first week of summer and the flowers are in bloom and the place is definitely buzzing with life.

We stay in the middle of the village and watch the world go by. A town that is extremely proud of its Olympic history and now a favoured holiday destination for visitors from all over the world.

A thing to note about all of these places we have visited, there’s not one city nor a village that we’ve visited that a young Australian has not served us or we’ve spoken to. We are quite literally everywhere… I sincerely hope the young people of Canada are coming to Australia and enjoying the same spoils our kids are being offered in Canada!

Our excitement is growing, we’re on the down hill run to our cruise, the main reason for our trip. We leave Whistler headed back into Vancouver to join our fellow expeditioners!

I sit here on board the Roald Amundsen enjoying a little New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, as we sail through snow capped glacial mountains with ice bergs, orcas and seals passing us by. What we have seen is truly unbelievable, until next time…

Walk in the Wild

So I know it’s been a while, we’ve been busy. Our stay at Stoey’s Farm for a couple of days was sensational. We wandered with the chooks, chatted with the Alpacas and loved up the 3 big pups! Jen, Dylan and the gorgeous Ella, were wonderful hosts. We vowed to return to this niche little part of the world – Salmon Arms, when we next visit!

23 May was a day that we captured the first of many bear sightings. A black bear was literally snacking on berries on the side of the road. We screeched the brakes and u-turned over double lines so we could get a better vantage point. We were like kids in a candy store, we couldn’t believe we’d actually seen a bear!

We were on our way to Blue River to do a safari specifically so we could hopefully see bears. With much excitement we boarded a speed boat, in the rain, hopefully to see either bear or moose! To say it was cold is an absolute understatement, layer up they said, layer we did! They then added a life jacket and rain poncho accompanied by heated blankets, we could hardly sit down, think an image of two marshmallow men attempting to ward off the cold whilst looking for wildlife! We opted for a slower, warmer ride back in a catamaran!

Next destination was Jasper in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. As we entered the National Park and bought our pass, we chatted to the young ranger who shared the best places to visit. Keep an eye for wildlife, they’re definitely out and about. We had no idea what was in store for us. As we neared to the town of Jasper, we came upon a small herd of white-tailed elk or deer (I’m still having difficulty as to which is which). I think we settled on deer. Literally two minutes further along towards town a herd of Bighorn sheep were again grazing by the side of the road. We couldn’t believe our luck!

Jasper is a small village surrounded by snow capped mountains. At every turn, there’s another picture postcard view. We discovered a store run by local artisans, a showcase of amazing local talent. I made a conscious decision a few years ago to only buy pieces that came direct from the artist, so for me, this was an absolute treasure trove. I may have secured a small piece or two!

I can only imagine how this village would come alive during the winter season. With so many beautiful mountain trails to hike, it was bustling now at the end of May! As we’ve only been booking our accommodation a few days before, we did struggle somewhat to secure accommodation (within our budget) in the rockies. We stayed at Forest Park Hotel at one end of town with a Starbucks within walking distance!

When we were planning this trip, we had entertained taking the Rocky Mountaineer to the towns of Jasper, Lake Louise and Banff. A journey which meanders its way around the mountains from the comfort of a luxury carriage with food and drinks, a guide to narrate your travels. We were hoping to catch a glimpse of the train however a 9 hour delay on the tracks made this impossible. Unfortunately or fortunately for us, the cost was prohibitive although now, after speaking to a variety of people, I definitely think we made the right decision to self drive and take in this beautiful part of the world. I’ve no doubt, we’ve had far greater interaction with wildlife, met and chatted to more people and experienced these rocky mountains in a more intimate way that we would have done, had we taken the train. If you’re considering a journey, I would definitely recommend, looking at reviews before committing the $$ for this experience.

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We headed towards Maligne Canyon which has 6 bridges along its mountain trail, which allows you to follow the flow of the glacial ice down the mountain. We had seen so much wildlife on the 10km drive from Jasper, it had taken us nearly an hour. Upon arrival into the carpark, the crowds were gathering, a bear with its cub had made an appearance. We gingerly joined the crowd to capture this unbelievable moment, the hushed crowd was respectful to keep their distance. As the mother and cub wandered alongside the carpark entry, they ducked out of view. There’s always one in the crowd, that needs to get just one more shot. A fellow decided to cross the road and come within about 10m of the mother bear, several members of the crowd, in a sheeplike manner, followed. Cecilia and I were aghast at people’s stupidity and knew had the bear attacked, she would seal her deadly fate. Think Princess Diana and the paparazzi, it was shocking to see the lack of respect. We departed the crowd and took to our bush walk.

We headed for the Columbia Icefields to walk on a glacier. The photos do not do justice to the beauty of these mountain ranges. The tree line is a pallet of green, the rivers and lakes, every shade of blue and aqua and the mountains with their glaring white snowcaps cascading down the grey granite. At every turn, it’s breathtaking.

Layer they said, layer we did! We boarded our all-terrain Ice Explorer to the Athabasca Glacier, which is a 10,000-year-old sheet of ice which continually moves. This Glacier feeds three oceans, I wouldn’t dare begin to explain how this works, although for those keen to know more, take a look at fellow blogger – Anton Thomas Art, he gives a great explanation. Our day on the ice, was one of learning, ticking bucket lists and generally just having a blast. The temperature at the Glacier with wind chill factor had us at -4°c.

With the current changes to the Earth’s climate, this glacier will melt and disappear within the next 50 years. This will be devastating to the wildlife, the flora and humans who rely on glaciers for survival! Nasa scientists regularly visit the Athabasca Glacier to study the movement. Do some research and look at comparative photos of now and then! What will the next 50 years bring…

Incorporated into the Glacier tour, we take a walk on the Skywalk, a glass walkway that allows the participant to walk over the canyon! I can assure you, for these two travellers, it was a very quick, cautious, white knuckle walk to say we did it!

Back on the road headed for Lake Louise, we encountered more and more wildlife. Whilst we expected to see wildlife, I think our count on bears is currently at 10! Deer, Elk, Bighorn sheep, Long horned goats and small wildlife are abundant.

We arrived late to the inn at Lake Louise and to then find out we had two levels of stairs to tackle to get to our room. We were tired as we dragged our sorry buts up the stairs! Lake Louise was an interesting place, very different to what I had imagined, it’s really the Fairmont Chateau which has the most amazing views of the Lake. We were having an indulgent day, Cecilia secured high tea at the Chateau, as my birthday gift! We sat by the window overlooking Lake Louise which still harboured a layer of ice and enjoyed another bucket list moment and a glass or two of my favourite, Veuve!

We’ve come across many Australians whilst we’ve been travelling, young ones here on their working visas and Gen Xs and Boomers spending their kids’ inheritances. The high tea at the Fairmont was no different, we chatted to a couple from Sydney, who were celebrating their first holiday away from their now grown children. They were doing the reverse of our way through Banff/Jasper National Park, so we swapped stories and wished each other safe travels. They told us they’d stayed in Banff at the Fox Hotel and Suites. We took their advice and wow, what a stay we had! The hotel is home to a heated pool (40°) inspired by the Cave and Basin Historic site which is the original site of the Banff thermal springs. I couldn’t get Cecilia into the original cave but the pool at the Fox, with its open roof and spa, allowed us the experience just the same.

© Fox Hotel and Suites. I took the photo from their website as mine were too dark.

To extend our experiences, we jumped on the free local transport and headed to the Banff Gondola to take us to the summit of Sulphur Mountain. As you board the Gondola, the unmistakable Aussie accent guides you every step of the way. Once on the ridge, you stroll along the boardwalk for a km or so, taking in so many steps we lost count, to reach the peak of this mountain. There are no words for the beauty that surrounds you. At an elevation of 2,451m we folk that live at sea level, realised how thin the air is although how clean the air is. We took our time and both of us made it!

To finish off our Banff experience, we enjoyed a Wagon Trail BBQ Cookout which was basically being run by Aussies! We met some wonderful young Australians who were an absolute credit to themselves, they entertained, informed and shared their journeys with us! If you’re in Banff, it’s a great experience for all the family, you can actually do the horse ride, although we opted for the wagon ride due to the cold and impending rain…

Banff was absolutely the pick for places to stay whilst in the Rocky Mountains. It was humming with life and I can only imagine what it must be like when snow covers the streets at the peak of ski season!

We start heading for the big smoke of Calgary and Edmonton, more to come next week!