Day 15 to 16 | Karumba via Burke and Wills Roadhouse, Quamby Hotel and Normanton

With a planned early start to ensure we make our sunset destination of Karumba, we somewhat gingerly set about the day, reeling from last night’s frivolities! I tentatively check my bank balance to ensure adequate funds remain and to assess the damage!

We take to the road, which yet again provides an abundance of wildlife, station stock and an array of native flora to pass the time. We’re bewildered at the sheer number of termite nests that appear as morbid cemeteries along deserted roads!

Cementries of Termite Nests | Yet another dusty straight long road…

The journey is long, dusty and the roads reflect the many road trains that have travelled carrying livestock to ports, sale yards or slaughterhouses. The roads bear witness to the harshness of this country and road kill is littered throughout.

The half way point is the Burke and Wills Roadhouse, more famous by name than by reputation, it’s a sparse oasis for travellers, the apostle birds take refuge in the sprinkler that is attempting to maintain a patch of greenery. We take the mandatory loo break, refuel, grab a coffee and hit the tarmac again.

Further along the track, we come across the Hotel in Quamby (pop. 0), which sits vacant and decaying and is now in the throes of be engulfed by tumbleweeds. The roof has fallen, the floorboards rotted through – a quick google search indicates a pub which was in its finery in 1860 although long since abandoned.

Burke and Wills Roadhouse | 1860 deserted Quamby Hotel

We arrive in to Normanton (pop.1210) mid-afternoon and track down the historic trail, this small northern town made famous by a local call out for a mechanic (watch the video, it’s worth it, though mind the language), this town is a time capsule of the past. The original jail across from the relic police station and remains as a reminder of what’s in store for delinquents. There’s a monument to the 8.63m crocodile that was located and killed just downstream. The thought of this beast being in any stream, river or ocean is horrifying!

Kris-Crocodile 8.63m | Normanton Prison (1893 – 1945)

The absolute jewel in this town without a doubt, is the railway station – home of the Gulflander. From the gardens which reflect memorabilia, to the restored station buildings, to the surrounds which host a plethora of relics from railways past, this is an outstanding museum captivated in time. I commend the custodians for their dedication and care. Should you find yourself this way, I would time your visit to take a journey on the Gulflander which travels to Croydon one day, and returns the next.

Front garden with train wheel edges | The Gulflander | Historic Station

Our time is precious, there’s a sunset to get to. It’s popular with travellers from the East as the sun sets over the ocean! Karumba is our destination, home to Les Wilson Barramundi Discovery Centre, it’s a sleepy fishing village that once housed mining FIFO workers whose departure has returned the village to a place where people can get lost. Our hosts at Savannah Shores, who hail from Geelong some 6 years ago, provide a casual, relaxed welcome. We find ourselves wandering along a deserted shoreline, collecting shells immediately settle in to the laziness of village life.

Guided by locals, we make our way to The Sunset Tavern, aptly named as you’re able to sit amongst the trees with a cold bevvy and watch the sun as it melts into the ocean for sunset. A sensational afternoon, with idle chatter watching the world go by.

Gorgeous Sunset

Tomorrow the trek to Cobbold Gorge…

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