Brave? I don’t see it that way…

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My ride!

Ok so I’ve decided that I could get used to this lifestyle – I love being ‘on the road’ meeting people from every corner of the world, hearing their stories, their travels. Every person I’ve met has had their own opinion of me travelling on my own! When I walk into the hotel bar at 10.00pm at night and there’s a group of about 15 businessmen – I split the group liking the parting of the red sea to get to the bar to order my nightly caffeine (with a shot of whiskey) fix – they joke and laugh and dig me about being Australian and ordering coffee! Inevitably the conversation turns to me travelling on my own – they’re in shock, they’re astounded – “Are you not worried?” they ask. “About what – running into a group of delinquent men such as yourselves all held up in the hotel bar? No I’m not.” I take my coffee and head back to my room with a little sneer on my face.

I’m constantly astounded by how many people have thought I’m brave to do this on my own – I don’t see it as brave. I think it’s more about believing in myself, knowing that I’m a confident strong independent woman who is comfortable with my own company and readily able to talk to a variety of different people from all walks of life.

Some of my highlights:

  • dinner with an older couple from Belgium who were holidaying in Italy;
  • a day on a boat in the Ligurian Sea with a group of young lads on summer break from University in the States;
  • spending an afternoon at the Baths in Hungary chatting with a group of British Police celebrating one’s impending wedding (yep, Buck’s Party);
  • an afternoon of beer tasting with an Irish couple in Bruges;
  • dinner with a Danish family in their home in Copenhagen;
  • an interesting flight with five Danish lads heading to a music festival in Belgium;
  • an evening in Galway with the parents of my Airbnb host;
  • an elderly lady with an amazing Seaside Thistle, who had never met an Australian;
  • an invitation to stay with a family at their holiday home in Guardbridge, near St Andrews in Scotland;
  • a group from Aberdeen, who shared a drink and a taxi before Bryan Adams concert;

It’s really not hard, start by people watching and just pass the time of day with someone. You’ll be amazed at how friendly people are – if you just listen they’ll share their story and you’ll get the chance to share yours.

Challenge – #Ellen, #Getaway, #SoloFemaleTravel – let me know if you know someone who would like a 52-year-old woman on her own, to travel the world and encourage other woman, to take a step, trust themselves, that they can do this – it’s ok to spread their wings and fly.

If travelling is something you’ve dreamed of doing and you’re not sure where to start, I’m happy to help – Ask me – I’m listening.

The hardest thing about travelling on your own, is mastering the selfie!

Belgium, Denmark and a Music Festival (nearly)!

Bruges, Belgium

The train  (THALYS) from Paris to Bruges, was definitely an experience. Seats were luxurious with meals served, similar to those on the plane, although with actual cutlery! Complimentary Wi-Fi and plenty of wine!

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Bruges was full of surprises, a definite must-see. If you’re travelling in Europe, don’t hesitate to add this gorgeous village to your itinerary. I had planned to stay for two days and ended up staying for five. I could go back and spend a month. It’s cobblestoned streets, lined by the most life altering chocolate shops can only be best described as a little part of Utopia! As well as the finest sweet shops, there are several extraordinary delicatessens selling cheese from the Gods. I think, without a doubt, Bruges was the most decadent place I’ve visited.

For those of you who are beer drinkers – they have over 1200 types of beers available to suit all palates. I spent an adventurous afternoon on a stool in 2be Beer Wall attempting to try as many beers as possible although I fear all I took away from this escapade was an extremely bad case of beer gut!

Whilst meandering through this fairy-tale medieval town, I happen upon a traditional folk dancing evening, held once per month in the local square (food market by day), it’s an opportunity for locals to gather, celebrate and learn dances from bygone eras.

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Click here to play video

From Bruges, I also spent the day visiting WWI sites which incorporated Flanders Fields, the In Flanders Field Museum, German bunkers along with several memorial sites and graveyards for various Nations who were involved in the war. It was a solemn day and to actually see trenches and dugouts gives you a bit more of an understanding of the hardships our soldiers went through during these battles. I was astounded to learn, that every week, the Belgium Army travels through the fields, collecting the live ammunition the farmers have uncovered during the week’s work. The day of our visit, we happened across several pieces of live ammo awaiting collection.

Prior to the war, the population of the region was in excess of 26,000, here we are 100 years on, and only slightly more than half, have returned to the area. Due to the excessive amount of lead based ammunition that was dumped on these fields, the land remains poisoned and the many farmers that fled during the war, had nothing to return to.

I’m sorry to leave Bruges, it’s truly a remarkable city and one that I look forward to returning to. Although excitement is in the air, I’ve decided to take the train through to Copenhagen – how you ask? Read on….

Copenhagen, Denmark 

I had heard, prior to my journey, about the train that goes on a ferry boat from Germany across to Denmark. I couldn’t get my head around this and put it on my “To Do” list. At last I was heading off on this latest adventure. Boarding the train in Bruges with a 13-hour train ride ahead, I settled back to enjoy the scenery. The train loads onto the ferry like a motor vehicle, if you’re not looking for it, you may well miss it. Once aboard, you must disembark the train and head to the upper levels of the boat. With duty free shopping available, it’s quite easy to lose track of time and before long you find yourself, re-boarding the train. The whole experience being quite surreal.

On my final change of train in Hamburg, I found myself in a closed cabin with a Danish family – Nicole, Claus and Nicholas. I was fortunate to spend approx. 5 hours with the most delightful young family who subsequently invited me to dinner. Nicholas was a young lad that was fascinated with my travels and I now have a greater understanding of both Dr. Who and Harry Potter! I was thrilled to accept their very kind dinner invitation and looked forward to seeing them again.

Upon arrival into Copenhagen, I first noticed that I had booked accommodation on the ‘wrong’ side of the railway line. Copenhagen is expensive, ranking the third most expensive city in Europe and didn’t I know it! Whilst the hotel was well located for visiting the city, the hookers and drug rehab place across the road was, at times, a little daunting! Saying that however, I never had any problems. I was merely two blocks from Tivoli Gardens and within walking distance to the many wonderful sights of the City.

Tivoli Gardens was an absolute highlight, a theme park dating back to 1843 which has retained its 19th century charm. I was somewhat hesitant at first, thinking it was merely a theme park. Tivoli Gardens is so much more than a theme park. I was captivated with a performance of a Cinderella Ballet Pantomime. I had never seen this type of performance before and it was incredible! I will actively seek to find more of these type of shows. It was this modern, rock, entertaining, theatrical performance that left the audience cheering and begging for more!

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A snippet of Cinderella!

Copenhagen is also a city of architecture, being host to one of Europe’s most well respected architectural colleges, it’s easy to see why the structural artists flock here to study. Unfortunately, I did not happen across our Princess Mary although I fear she wasn’t hanging out in the same suburbs as I may have been! Very much a thriving city although I felt it was quite disjointed, there were certain pockets of beauty but overall failed to impress.

I was anxious to leave as I was heading for a catch up with friends, I had not seen for many years! Next, Ireland, Scotland and England – Lasting friendships!

I did however manage to find myself on a flight from Denmark to Belgium with five young men full of handsomeness, on their way to a music festival in Brussels. As I took my seat on the plane, I was placed in a row by myself, directly in front of these lads, with no other passengers in sight. They had been drinking, I had been drinking and as they say – the rest is history!

Their mothers would be proud, they shared their drinks, laughs and even an invite to a Music Festival. “What bands are playing?” enquires the 52yo female. “Bands? No bands, just DJ’s.”  replies the handsome young lads. Alas I’m knocked back into the generational gap!

Ireland is calling …

Berlin, Amsterdam and Paris with Daughter no. 2

As I head towards Berlin, I am filled with nervous anxiety – I’m heading to visit with friends that I have not seen for nearly 20 years. During our years living in Saudi Arabia, we had become extremely good friends with a Brit couple Al and Carole. Our communication since 1997 had solely been via Facebook, a like here, a comment there and now I had been so bold to ask them to stay.

When I arrived, they were waiting on the platform and it was like I had seen them yesterday. We immediately launched into sharing our histories for the past 20 years and for 5 days we caught up in each other’s lives and cemented our friendship for another 20 years!

It is true what is said about expatriates, friends become family and friendships last a lifetime! We shared several bottles of Al’s wine, lucky his monthly wine club order arrived during my stay!

As well as visiting the sights of Berlin, it was an absolute thrill to catch up with Al and Carole. Carole and I were able to spend a wonderful morning in the sun, in her spa catching up on days gone by.

Dana (Daughter no. 2) arrived the second day and our sightseeing adventures commenced. We ventured into the city to visit the Brandenburg Gate, the Wall, Checkpoint Charlie and of course, the many WWII memorial sites throughout the city.  Berlin is so much more than just what remains after WWII. It’s a fast paced modern city and you would be surprised at how many shoe shops I visited during just one day until we found the exact pair, Dana had been looking for! Thank you Berlin Mall!

The public rail system did present us with challenges however. You have Regional Trains (RER) and S-Bahns that all appear to run in and out of the same stations and lines. On the weekend, there was work to the lines so some trains didn’t go to where timetables said they would. Totally exhausted from a day’s sightseeing, we found ourselves late at night without a train to take us back to Blankenfelde where Al and Carole were waiting patiently to collect us from the Station! So after three days of extensive train travel through Berlin City, we were still none the wiser however could recognise a station before they announced it on the train! Beware for future visitors to this City – don’t leave catching your train until the last minute, get to where you’re going early and then relax and take coffee!

The Brandenburg Gate was difficult to experience, as there was a festival being held in the park that encompassed the gate (you will see from the photos). Checkpoint Charlie Museum is a definite must visit whilst in Berlin – I could have spent a week at the Museum and still not have read all the displays. At the actual checkpoint, there are two fellows dressed as soldiers and you can have your photo taken. Whilst I’ve come across many ‘tacky’ tourist photo opportunities in my travels, this one ground on my sense of respect. I couldn’t help but think of the individuals that had passed through this spot, the agonies, the challenges, the lives of the both the living and the dead and the hope of so many that wished to pass through had been reduced to this. As we meandered our way through the city, it was astounding to continually come across the path of the wall, marked out by a paved line. It’s incomprehensible to imagine this City literally cut in two. Even though the wall has now been down for some years, there remains a subtle contrast between East and West. The highlight of the sightseeing tours is of course, the artwork on the East Gallery – it’s moving, it’s thought provoking, it’s crude however all stands for someone’s representation of matters at hand at the time.

I was incredulous at the difference between Sachenhausen Camp and what I had witnessed in Auschwitz-Birkenhau. The latter being an extermination camp with Sachenhausen being a working camp. Whilst there were still deaths and persecutions of the minority, it appeared to be mild, in comparison with the atrocities of Auschwitz-Brikenhau. As the guide took us through the camp and explained how the inmates were provided three meals per day albeit basic stews with little meat I couldn’t help but recall the Guide’s explanation of meals in Auschwitz being “they were fortunate to receive a watery soup, once per day – enough to keep them alive”. The sleeping quarters where three to a bed was deemed unbearable, in comparison at least eight or more were laid out on wooden slats, tightly bound for warmth and survival.

I suppose what I found to be the major difference was the size of the camps. As I’m sure all of you are aware Auschwitz-Birkenhau was an extermination camp of the worst kind – there were four massive gas chambers that each exterminated over 1000 people at a time.

By no means, would I ever presume those interned at Sachenhausen ‘got off easy’ however I don’t believe there should be a comparison to those interned at Auschwitz-Birkenhau.

Amsterdam

Working to Dana’s itinerary now, we depart Berlin and head for Amsterdam. Dana and I enjoyed our 6-hour train journey, gave us time to catch up, sleep and plan our Amsterdam trip. Banksy has an exhibition, so that’s definitely on the list. We plan to visit a windmill and cheese makers. As I’ve been to Amsterdam previously, I mentioned to Dana the Red Light District and the Coffee Houses. She’s not sure about either.

Our Airbnb apartment was literally a two-minute walk from the Station, navigating the narrow winding staircase was certainly challenging – thank you to our lovely host, Tyler who came to our rescue and we would rely on gravity to get back down!

Once settled, we meandered through the City and of course, more shopping was on the agenda. After Dana’s shopping itch had been scratched, we then took in some of the local sights. Dana was astounded at the availability of drugs and relevant paraphernalia. I thought I would be the ‘Oh so cool, Mother’ and suggested, as it was legal, she may like to try a cookie or two. She admonished me for suggesting such a thing and was not prepared to get ‘baked’ with her mother! Phew… escaped that easily enough.

Our first escapade was to visit the Banksy Exhibition and we were certainly not disappointed, the artwork is amazing although his messages far more relevant. I was pleasantly surprised to see many young people visiting the exhibition and healthy discussions taking place concerning his pieces. Whilst the placement of his artwork is, at times controversial, if it opens the discussion and brings awareness to many worthy plights, I can’t help but support the path he has chosen.

Wandering through the cobblestone streets and corners within the vibrant city, brings us upon many buildings from eras gone by. The uneven surface of the pathways leaves you in awe of the multitude of people that have walked through these streets for hundreds of years. I’m astounded at the development that has taken place in the 25 years since my last visit, modern, gigantic structures being placed among the tumbling down ruins of the past, although for some strange reason, it fits. The Dutch have been able to bring the old and new together to ensure the landscape of their city remains unique.

The following day we hopped aboard our tour bus to visit a Windmill, Dutch Museum, Cheese factory and a small Dutch village. Whilst the tour bus was not really our thing, we managed to have a fun filled day. Our first stop was to visit a working Windmill, of all the Windmills, in all the towns, the one we visit makes peanut oil! As daughter no. 2, is anaphylactic to nuts this was quite a challenge, as Linseed was on the menu that day, all was well. A few sneezes here and there and the visit was without incident. It was astounding to see the inner workings of a Windmill that was over 300 years old still plodding along day in and day out.

The cheese factory was located in the small village of Volendam, which lay along near the mouth of IJ Bay. Such a picturesque village although inundated with visitors trawling through their streets and back gardens. I suspect it’s a love/hate relationship with tourists. We were able to find a Goat’s cheese that Dana loved, so despite the crowds, the trip was definitely a bonus!

The following day we were hoping to visit Anne Frank’s House although the wait was about 4-hours in freezing windy weather! I’m led to believe you need to purchase your tickets weeks in advance or face the cold. We opted not to wait and took to the canals for a tour of the Amsterdam waterways. Seeing the city from the water, is quite different, travelling under narrow low bridges which have stood the test of time for centuries.

Amsterdam is a wonderful city, the locals, if you can find them, are extremely friendly and tolerant of the masses. One of our favourite moments, would have to be the breakfast at P&W (Pancakes and Waffles) – a small basic café run by young Egyptian/Lebanese fellow who just does crepes albeit the best crepes I’ve ever eaten!

Paris

When Dana made the decision to visit and then we planned our visit to Paris, we had no idea that our timing coincided with the UEFA 2016 Euro Final – possibly the busiest weekend in Paris’ annual calendar. Accommodation was at a premium, we ended up in a small Airbnb in the heart of the city although at $200 per night, my most expensive accommodation for the duration of the trip!

Paris is as wonderful as ever, we spent a day in the Louvre and could have stayed longer – the most amazing place! Although the whole Mona Lisa gig is overrated and they seriously need to look at crowd control. If you happen to visit, don’t get carried away with Mona Lisa turn around and you will be enthralled at the painting directly behind you which is the Wedding Feast portraying Christ turning water into wine.

There were so many highlights within the Louvre although for me the Coronation of Napoleon I was a standout. When you hear that Napoleon’s mother was never actually in attendance although Napoleon instructed artist, Jacques Louis David, to include his mother in the recording of history. It reminds me to question and not believe everything you see or hear, to accept that certain historic events can be retold according to the privileged and how they wanted the story portrayed. Would the painting have become the sensation it is today had he not had events altered?

Our trip to the Eiffel tower was chaotic due to crowds preparing for the football final, as the fan zone was located in the park near the base of the tower. You may recall the ugly scenes where police used tear gas and water cannons to break up the crowd. Thankfully, our visit was much earlier in the day and was not marred by this nonsense. We were able to fully enjoy our time at the top of the Eiffel Tower in spite of me splurging for a €15 glass of Moet and Chandon to have it spilt down the front of me by an over excited fellow tourist!

A must do, on Dana’s Europe trip list, was to visit Euro Disney – whilst she’s been to Disneyland, Stateside, she was so young and really did not remember her visit. So off to Euro Disney we go! Dana managed to get her Mickey ears and shots in front of the Princess Palace. I think her featured moment was to beat me on the Buzz Lightyear ride. When my girls were small I never allowed them to play with or have any type of toy that depicted a gun. When visiting Disneyland, I blitzed everyone shooting the laser on the Buzz Lightyear ride, it became a legendary story Manon likes to recall! Dana took great pleasure in annihilating me on this ride.

I loved this day with Dana, she will probably sigh at me, but it reminded me that she’s still my baby and I cherished this day to be able to relive a little bit of the little girl still inside!

A few years ago, I was able to travel to Italy with Manon and I’ve now had the opportunity to travel with Dana – despite all my travels these are my favourite travel memories – it’s the stories I’ll retell to my grand-babies when I get them. I would actively encourage mothers out there to take time, to spend with your children – individually, it may not be an overseas holiday but just one on one time. We tend to do this when they’re small but to spend time with them when they’re young adults is another stepping stone!

After 10 days, it was time for Dana to head home and for me to carry on with my travels, I reluctantly left Dana at the Charles de Gaulle and headed towards Bruges, Belgium.