After being in Levanto for nearly three weeks, I decided it’s time to venture further afield, to do this I went off to hire a car. Unfortunately, the day in question was the Italian Republic Day and therefore a public holiday. No problem, I was however able to get myself a scooter!
I’ve scooted around Krabi (Thailand) on a scooter, I was full of confidence, how hard could it be? The first point of difference is that they drive on the left, oh and there’s a lot more vehicles in La Spezia than in Krabi – like highways and traffic lights and dual lanes and …
It took me an hour to get out of La Spezia for two reasons, I hadn’t mastered turning corners – I seem to only be able to turn right and I couldn’t hear my GPS on my phone in my pocket to in fact find my way out of the City. I eventually found myself in a car park, practiced a few corners here and there and got my earplug under the helmet – I was ready to embark, it was now or never!
Before I could turn on to the back roads to make my way back to the Cinque Terre, I had to get on to a highway for about 5km. I hadn’t thought about the bloody tunnels – how overwhelming when you find yourself on a scooter, in a tunnel with cars whizzing past you because you’re not going fast enough! Tunnels are dark and of course I’ve worn my sunglasses to complete the “I’m so cool riding a scooter” look that I struggled into the darkness hoping that there is in fact a light at the end of this tunnel! By the end of the 36km journey – well my journey was more like a 64km journey due to all the right hand turns – I was no longer daunted by the upcoming tunnels, which range from 50m to over 2500m it’s quite amazing to weave your way through a mountain after mountain.
As I meandered along those country back roads in the Italian Riviera I was struck by the beauty of this amazing country – lush green hills, fast flowing creeks, it reminded me of New Zealand although as you turn the next bend, you happen upon a medieval village or a church that appears more archaic that the previous. There is a constant display of ruins in fields and by the side of the road, some being consumed by nature others looking like they’ve recently been felled.
There is an abundance of space within those mountains, although village life is contained within a few blocks. They tend to live on top of each other – these quaint small villages made up of what appears to be colourful lego built homes, each sharing a neighbouring wall. I’m not sure of the Italian history, although it appears that each village would have been a family’s property, as each member of the family expanded, they added another living area. The saying, “it takes a village”, I see clearly what is meant in these hills. I could see the Steer, Lewis, O’Leary, Hutchison families living in our own village although I fear instead of a church, it would have been a Taverna!
Lucca
I now had my power wheels and my first venture, led me to Lucca, the first of my Tuscan towns. Lucca’s old town is surrounded by extremely well preserved Renaissance walls from 16th/17th century. To be honest, I wasn’t keen on Lucca, yes it’s old and they have many churches, as do other cities – nothing stood out for me here. I found the most interesting sites in Lucca were the assortment of doors on the various buildings. Every window was barred, is this an indication of a high crime rate within the region (it would be the first I’ve encountered) or was the placed so steeped in history that the locals were still living in fear of the savages from days gone by.
The highlight of my day in Lucca, was the Café where I paused for afternoon tea, there was an array of amazing bite sized pastries just waiting to poach away my WW points for the day!
Another Levanto Production
During my first week in Levanto I happened across a small theatre production in the Piazza Cavour (the town square) whereby scenes from Macbeth, Romeo & Juliet and Hamlet were being performed by the local thespians. I was again enthralled this week to come across a production of Grease being performed by the local children’s dance school. As possibly the only native speaking English person present and knowing all the words, actions and dances, I could in fact have played the lead, if only given the opportunity!
Whilst both productions had charm and were in deed entertaining, I couldn’t help but be aware of the opportunities provided to those of us who live in cities and are afforded the masterminds of great teachers, exceptional facilities and an abundance of individual talents. These performances were somewhat crude, although I’m no theatre critic and I don’t believe there will be any Tony’s awarded, however the audience was full of praise and the Piazza was alive with accomplishment and gratitude for entertainment on a spring evening, in a picturesque village, on the Ligurian coast!
Each evening ended with the calls of ‘Bravo, Bravo’ from the captivated crowds. It should be noted that the dance school was completely female characters, is it that the Italian boys cannot dance or are they simply too mucho for such frivolity!
Angelo’s Boat Tours
Whilst enjoying my daily aperitifs and watching the boats frolic through the deep blue-green waters, I longed for such a day. My sleuth enquiries led me to Angelo’s Boat Tours, a local who had captured himself a San Franciscan gal and together they had developed a boat tour that involved, food, wine, swimming and a guide to Cinque Terre cliffs from the water.
My companions for the day are a young couple from Chicago, sisters from Australia travelling with elderly parents and a group of four young American lads taking leave after graduation and before embarking on their careers. Said lads arrived with an additional four bottles of Prosecco to share with their fellow sailors. I instantly knew there was a day to be had!
We motored along, hugging the cliff face as Alessandro (local guide from Levanto) told us of the history of the villages and the subsequent decline of traditional trades due to the almighty tourist dollar. Alessandro explained in years gone by, the cliffs had been crumbling and with the planting of the vineyards and crops, it has assisted in holding the earth and rock together sustaining the cliffs for future, however as more and more farmers leave their fields to open yet another Italian restaurant, the cliffs are now returning to their crumbling state. The local community are now struggling to maintain the devastation, in particular the walkways, which is a major drawcard for the villages. It seems to be a vicious cycle and without some input from UNESCO, the Cinque Terre will no longer be a major drawcard for hiking tourists and that almighty dollar that they fight for, will be no more.
Upon arriving into Vernazza, we pause to take lunch, seated amongst the throng of fellow tourists we are treated to a feast which is made famous by the Italians. With seafood aplenty along with pasta and yet I dare to say, more wine. We gorged until we could eat no more! We returned to the boat ready for siestas on the deck. It was not long and the anchor was released to allow our senses to be awoken in the clear cool deep sea waters!
With our bodies alive and refreshed, we headed for Monterroso Al Mare somewhat more subdued than at the point of departure. It was a day filled with laughter and chatter and at times, disclosure of personal stories to strangers from afar. Another day that will undoubtedly be a highlight of this intrepid journey.
My week rounds off with a shopping trip to the fashion outlet stores in Brugnato, located approximately 10km inland from Levanto. I parked on the outskirts of Brugnato and wandered through the medieval laneways of the village. In doing this I came upon a photographic display of a Festival that was held in the village earlier in the year. Unfortunately I don’t know more than that but as you will see from the photos, it appears the laneways are decorated with designs and tributes which are quite obviously Christian based, it may be a celebration of the patron saint of that region. Once I exited the village I walked through the suburban streets making my way towards the shopping outlet stores. After being surrounded by homes from throughout the centuries, I was astounded to see newer quite significantly larger homes and with an abundance of living space and garden areas. I’m pleased to see this other side of life, it’s where if I lived in this area, I’m sure I would be.
The outlet shopping mall turned out to be quite tame when compared to Harbour Town on Australia’s Gold Coast. All the shoppers could have met in the central piazza and shared a pizza, there were so few of us! I’m also not sure that the Italians have mastered the ‘outlet’ shopping experience – prices were exorbitant!
Next, my adventures in Tuscany, leaving Levanto and my visit with the Montague and Capulet families!
A Stepping Stone 