Before I leave this beautiful area, I wanted to spend a couple of days in Tuscany, my friend and travel agent extraordinaire, Debbie, has guided me to Villa Sant Andrea – it’s a beautiful villa whose cellar dates back to 11th century. What more could I ask for. It’s a couple of hours drive away. After battling through a horrendous rain and hail, I find myself at Villa Sant Andrea in a small village of Fabbrica, an amazing villa which sits on the peak of the hill surveying 600 hectares of prime Tuscan vineyards. It is quite simply breathtakingly beautiful.
I arrive late afternoon, so have a late lunch early dinner at La Scuderia in a neighbouring village – Badia a Passignano. This restaurant would have the largest selection of wines that I have ever seen in one place. I especially like the 2l bottles that they offer! It takes having a bottle of wine to whole other level.
The following morning, I toured the wine cellar, albeit giant large wine barrels like those in Australia although finding them sitting in a medieval cellar adds a new dimension. Following the tour, I spent a few hours by the Villa pool, taking in some sunshine and surrounding myself in these remarkable hills. The plan was to join my fellow wine tasters for dinner, in the local gourmet restaurant for the area. Unfortunately, by 3.30pm I was bed-bound with a gastro bug that very quickly ended my Tuscan adventure. I was uncertain as to whether I would make it back to Levanto the next day although after an unsettled night, I was on the road to recovery the next morning, I needed to get the car hire back and get sorted for my onwards journey.
Dinner with newfound friends
One of the things I love about travelling is the many people you meet. During my travels, I’ve enjoyed boat trips with four young American lads who have just finished College, taking time out before they start their working career, a family from Australia taking a dream holiday with their mother who is in the first stages of Alzheimer’s, a wine tasting tour with two couples from Austria. As I’m standing on the corner of Casella attempting to get phone coverage, a couple from Belgium stop to ask directions, they were merely 100m from their destination.
As I wandered down the hill for my aperitifs that afternoon, I happened across the Belgium couple getting out of their vehicle. We stopped and chatted, about accommodation, they enquired about sites to see and restaurants to eat at. As I’m now ‘in the know’ I was more than happy to share my knowledge of the area before I continued on my way. Almost at the bottom of the hill, the Belgium couple offer me a ride into the village. I gratefully accept – I never miss an opportunity to chat with people and learn more about their travels and where they come from. I now have a place to stay and tour guides in Antwerp!
On my last night, I wanted to return to a couple of my favourite haunts, the local bar and L’Articiocca restaurant where I did my cooking classes. Upon arriving at the bar, Ermanno and Clara (L’Articiocca) were already at the bar with other friends, this was their one night off. They were joining other friends and asked me along for dinner, which was being cooked ) by one girl’s mother. Never one to miss an opportunity, I tagged along. Diggio (Belgium) works in Cinque Terre teaching Standup Paddle surfing, Kiara (strong Italian woman), Emmanuel (strong silent Italian man), Michael and Elle (British couple) and Suzie (Michael’s mother) who owns a property here and has been holidaying in Levanto since she was a child. Each with their own story of how they came to Levanto and never left – It was truly a wonderful evening with great food and company.
I embark on the early morning train headed for Verona – my next adventures await. With only one night in Verona, of course the highlights will be visiting the Montague and Capulet families! I decide to see this City aboard the eyes of a Hop On Hop Off due to limited time. Arriving into Verona on the 1.00pm train, dropping my case at my Airbnb, I started touring about 2.00pm. I was enthralled with this city, it is by far the most picturesque of the all the Italian cities I’ve visited. Like the others, it has a cultural history dating back millenniums. From Castelvecchio who has held kings, Armies and religious orders through to fortified walls and medieval gates still being a part of everyday life. As I walked from the centre at midnight, which was still full of life, I realise Verona is a city worthy of more than a day’s visit.
Montague and Capulet Family Dramas
It would be remiss of me, not to give you my thoughts on Romeo and Juliet, possibly the most well-known love story of all time. I eagerly awaited the opportunity to Hop Off to visit Juliet’s courtyard and balcony and, as many before have done, place my hand on her breast for future luck. I was expecting a throng of people and I wasn’t disappointed. I stood opposite the entry arch, biding my time to enter into what I believed was a sacred romantic corner of the world. What I was confronted with, was a tunnel of love worthy of the crudest graffiti award including overflowing garbage cans, as I emerge into the courtyard and balcony area, I have a sudden stay, thinking the crudity is contained to the tunnel, I pause to take stock of my surroundings but alas, the romantic lovers of days gone by have continued to place their markings on the surrounding walls.
On closer inspection, I note there is also a complete colourful sector dedicated to chewed gum. Is it that they chew the same piece and join their spit on the wall for others to clean at some point? For those that know me, this was my undoing, I am almost phobic to chewing gum (to rid the universe of this disgusting saliva ridden, germ infested product would bring me eternal happiness) and to see this place defiled in this way immediately halted me in my tracks – there was no longer an image of a young couple in love and their desperate romantic battle against family sagas, or a peaceful place to pause and reflect on life’s loves. It took a herculean effort to get my feet moving and force my way back through the vulgar tunnel and to the wonders of an ancient city. As I broke free of the crowds, I noticed my earlier position was outside Shakespeare’s, on closer inspection this was a tacky souvenir shop and any association with Shakespeare would have the wordsmith turning in his grave.
I did not place my hand upon Juliet’s breast, I did not pay to stand upon her balcony – my future luck and love will be safe in my hands – my clean, sterile, empty of spittle, hands!
I did manage to come across the Les secrétaires de Juliette which for me, was more interesting. I met with a group of five young ladies who had all volunteered for weeks on end and had come from as far afield as Portgual, Spain, Italy and America. Their task to sit for hours answering a string of love letters written by either hopeless romantics or Hollywood driven maniacs. They were all no older than about 25 and not one was married, so it would be interesting to see who responds to those seeking advice for the over 50s. Maybe I’ll apply although I believe my somewhat sarcastic approach would be met with distain and I could set the world afire with many strong independent women! The responsibility too great!
Train Verona to Salzburg
As I sit on the train, having not long departed Verona for Salzburg, I’m devastated to be leaving Italy, I’m sure a piece of me will always remain in Italy! We are no more than 40 minutes outside of Verona and the train is travelling through a sea of vineyards surrounded by cliffs and mountains, I’m struck by the severity of the cliffs and the mountains of the Dolomites. As we slide through the mountainous landscape and edge our way towards the Austrian border, the more remote the villages, the loss of vineyards and the theatrics of castles on the hills commence.
I’m chatting with my cabin mate, Miss Viktoria, a young woman from Munich who is returning to her home country for a short stay but who has fallen in love with Bologna and a Bolognese man and left her German roots behind. She’s my travel guide on my journey, explaining the mountains, the language and the history of the border towns of Italy and Austria. I was unaware that certain parts of Italy were Austrian and after the second world war the borders were altered. She tells me how her flatmates from this area, will tell you that whilst they are officially in Italy, their hearts remain in Austria – the language spoken in the area is German, the houses representative of German rather than Italian!
Our journey is interrupted by the boarding of a company of Austrian police, refugees have been located and will be forcibly removed. There is a family of five which includes a baby brought into this world in very recent times along with two older brothers, whose eyes are unable to hide the fear they now must face – the parents are young, they’re downcast, they purchased tickets for the train although don’t have the papers to support their journey. There are also three young lads, they look like no more than 14 or 15, travelling on their own. Standing amidst the burley Austrian police, the whites of their eyes glowing in fear, my heart goes out to these people, their plight for a better life has come to an abrupt end. The silence of fellow passengers on the train, alone in their thoughts, makes for a sombre journey. Whilst the whole scenario was quite orderly and without fuss, to actually witness the loss of hope and the realisation that the young couple’s future plans for their children has be terminated, I found confronting and distressing and I will never forget the young boy’s pleading look and the absolute terror, of his unknown future.
Salzburg, Austria
After my train experience, my first night in Salzburg was somewhat subdued, I found my accommodation and visited a nearby restaurant where I enjoyed a bottle of wine and took stock of earlier events and how one’s destiny can be altered at any given point in time.
In complete contrast to my previous day and renewed with energy after conversations with my girls, I was to spend the day visiting a Salt Mine and my long awaited Sound of Music Tour! When Debbie had suggested the Salt Mine, I was somewhat sceptical that I would enjoy this, being underground in caves brought back memories of the Beaconsfield mine disaster. Somewhat anxious, I entered the caves and was astounded at the structures and details. The drill a hole in the ground, several hundred metres below, send crews of men down and then fill part of the hole with water – a totally chilling thought although it works. The set-up of the tour was excellent; I was astounded to sail across an underground lake with a light show. Unfortunately, you are unable to take photos whilst underground, the best I’ve got to show you, is a photo of a postcard and of course, the happy snap taken by the tour that cost me 5 euros!
Sound of Music Tour
Ok, now the whole reason I came to Salzburg – to sing on the hilltops! I boarded my tour bus with nervous energy, hoping my karaoke vocals will withstand the pressure of Maria’s high notes. I find myself seated with a group of young Texas Tech Performing Arts Group who are currently studying in the Czech Republic and who have just performed at the Fringe Festival – Drama majors – seriously? I couldn’t be in better company for the most dramatic tour of my journey! Our guide Albrecht (complete with lederhosen), is possibly in his late 50’s and living the dream – being able to sing and perform Sound of Music every day (in fact, he does two tours a day) and get paid for it – I don’t believe I’ve ever met anyone who enjoys his job more than this fellow! We instantly knew, there was fun to be had.
As we meandered through the streets of Salzburg, we were provided with Albrecht’s own personal satirical view of the city. There are too many sites from the movie to mention in this mere blog. The front of this house, the back of that, this row of trees, that driveway – at each stop you recall the scene from the movie and see yourself stepping through the looking glass and taking your place as Gretel or Leisel or Maria, all the while learning additional snippets of information from our illustrious guide. It was time to leave the city behind and head into the mountains – I was not the only one on that tour, whose heart was aflutter with the anticipation of running through those hills. We were heading to Mondsee, which possesses the church that Maria and the Captain were married in. It’s an hour’s drive through the mountains, what else to do but sing! For a split second, my vocal chords froze, I was struck with fear as my seat companion tells me that she sings a capella in her local church! I let her know that I’m a karaoke queen and profusely apologise in advance – I’m not being put off by someone who can actually hold a tune!
Upon arrival into Mondsee, we encounter a Marching Band Competition, in excess of 20 groups, all dressed in traditional Austrian Tracht (attire) and filling the cobblestoned ways with music. The pathways were lined with dirndls and lederhosens, we were instantly immersed in Austrian culture and the whole village was alive with festivities. After partaking in famous apple strudel we returned to the city to take in the beautiful ‘Do Re Mi’ gardens of Mirabell Palace. Remembering I’m with a group of performing arts students, we had to re-enact the famous hopping step scene, so we took over the steps and thrilled a touristic audience with scenes from their favourite movie!
To watch the following videos, click on the links below each photo!
With our Sound of Music tour now over, Albrecht has given us his last point of interest, directions to the local beer hall. With music and hilarity all around us, we head off for the beer hall – you never know, hopefully there may be an Oompah band! After realising there is one type of beer and the smallest, a ½ litre mug – it was time to indulge in beer drinking! To my fellow extended Von Trapp family singers – Katie, Abby, Lauren, Hannah and Zach – my Sound of Music tour was made all the more enjoyable with you as my backing group! If some day you venture Downunder, I’ll be sure to show you just how a singing tour is done Australian style with my backyard Karaoke!
The following day, I visited the Christmas Museum, the Hohensalzburg Fortress, a river cruise and Hellbrunn Palace (17th century Renaissance Palace) which boasts amazing water features still powered as they were 300 years ago!
A Stepping Stone 