I’ve spent this week, really trying to get a feel for the local area. As I sit here typing this, I can hear the coaches winding their way up and down the narrow mountain roads and blowing their horn around the blind corners. With each toot of the horn, another dog joins in to the melody of the evening barking session.
As I head off on my descent to the village of Levanto, I’m reminded that this is a major tourism area that fills by day with visitors from Genoa, Milan and Rome as well as the cruise ship terminals from La Spezia. Thankfully, it’s not peak season as yet so the madness has not quite hit. The locals tell me August is their busiest period with some days having as many of 20,000 visitors to the area. It’s a love/hate relationship – business is good although there is a desecration of their quiet village life.
My wonderful host, Claudia, had been to the local Information office and collected a variety of brochures to guide me around Levanto and neighbouring villages. There are walks which weave you through Levanto town and discover sights which make this town more interesting as you turn each corner.
I had no idea that one small village could hold within its boundaries so many different relics from centuries past. To see medieval buildings and landmarks from the 11th century being used in everyday life is remarkable. The 12th century clock tower still chiming through the hours – how is this even possible?
Fortified Wall with a clock tower – clock still working for the last 800 years – What the???
This region wouldn’t be Italian, without the abundance of churches, each with their own distinctive style and history. From pirates to Saints, each holds their revered position within the region. My personal favourites – Oratoria Mortis et Orationis – my understanding is Brotherhood of Death and Prayer – widely known as the Pirate Church in Monterosso Al Mare and Sant’Andrea’s (c.1222) in Levanto. The ringing of the church bells is endless, I was awake about 3.00am a couple of nights ago and still heard the bells chiming the time. One evening at 9.30pm, the bells rang for 30 minutes, I’m not sure if this was to celebrate something special, perhaps a wedding or a funeral or maybe the anniversary of the patron saint of that particular church.
Whilst talking pirates, it would be remiss of me not to mention my ‘altercation on the high seas’ – well it sounds so ! Taking the ferry from Levanto to Riomaggiore I came across a real live pirate!
I have no words…
All aspects of modern life do not appear to have made its way to the Liguria region, my studio apartment does not have telephone or internet, to gain access to these modern technologies, I must stand in the bus stop at the front of the village (to the great amusment of village-goers) or walk 3km into town. The local bus only runs up the hill despite there being a timetable and bus stops running down – I was made aware of this fact by the upwards bus yelling at me, that “no autobus giu”(no bus down). The local council has been laying a new footpath and as such there has been one lane closed. Now in Australia this would entail bright lights, trucks, cones, reduction in speed and several traffic regulation officers (stop and go men), well things here a little more laid back. A single fellow standing on the sidewalk with a slightly oversized ping pong bat – one side red, one side green. It’s all really quite simple and yet it works.
Each morning a major road is closed for the daily market to take place where you can purchase everything from clothing, pots and pans and makeup to televisions, radios and iPhone accessories. Many businesses close between 1.30pm and 3.00pm for lunch and a lull falls over the village with many restaurants and bars not opening until 7.00pm although kitchens still open at midnight. I’m slowing starting to realise that dinner is served about 10.00pm not at 6.00pm.
The locals seem to be getting used to me, a young girl walks her new pup every afternoon and if my door is open, it’s a stop along to way for the pup to discover something new. It gives me a chance to interact with my neighbours. I’m now regularly met with a welcome of ‘ciao buongiorno (good morning) or buonasera (good evening)’. If I’m heading out at the same time, I’ve been offered rides to Levanto, which I’ve happily accepted another opportunity to interact with the locals – they’re all intrigued that I would want to spend time in Casella.
Due to the uphill climb on the way home (after a couple of finest local vinos) I’m on a first name basis with the local taxi drivers – Mykos and Eduardo. I asked if they’ve ever been to Australia – Mykos tells me it would take 10 years of work to afford to travel so far. From what I have learnt, the Ligurians go about their daily business (albeit at a slow pace) for minimal fiscal return. Their life is relaxed as are their attitudes which makes this region of Italy even more of a welcome relief from the fast paced, action filled lifestyle on the Gold Coast.
I could definitely get used to this…
A Stepping Stone 